Posts: 5,119
Threads: 12
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: SoMar
Does anyone have experience with pink board insulation?
I need to insulate the upper perimeter walls of my basement & I was thinking of using this material.
My question is this. Would adhesive hold it to the wall or would it dissolve the board?
I was thinking of something like PL400 or the like.
Thanks for any help or info.
Posts: 20,865
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD
Herb G said:
Does anyone have experience with pink board insulation?
I need to insulate the upper perimeter walls of my basement & I was thinking of using this material.
My question is this. Would adhesive hold it to the wall or would it dissolve the board?
I was thinking of something like PL400 or the like.
Thanks for any help or info.
PL300 is made for foam insulation.
WoodNET... the new safespace
Posts: 36,355
Threads: 3
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: RTP, NC
What he said, there is adhesive made for foam insulation. An alternative (and required by my county here in addition to adhesive) is mechanical fasteners with fender washers to hold it in place.
Posts: 3,466
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2001
Location: Commerce Township, MI
They make it with recesses for firing strips. It makes fastening easy.
Posts: 13,002
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2007
This is what I did. Mechanical fasteners with tape over them to control moisture diffusion. The fasteners are only needed long enough to get the wall up, which is tight against the insulation to keep an air gap from occurring.
With all this, and a gas fireplace in the basement it was the warmest room in the house all winter.
Mike
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
Posts: 5,732
Threads: 2
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Fort Worth
There are plastic inserts that are made for holding foam to concrete. They are dirt cheap in England and I actually ordered them from there once. Here in the us they are quite pricey as in dollars each in some cases.
I also found some on amazon that weren't too badly priced and would do just not as nice.
The pl adhesive works but the tap in fasteners are better. Hilti makes a powder nail gun for nailing foam to concrete. They are rare and expensive as its a very niche market tool.
If you can get 2" foam. It's special order from most borgs but easier to work with than the 3/4 and much more effective.
As mentioned furring strips work well too depending on the application. But never use furring strips on ceilings. There is a special place in hell for the guys that do that and it's run by electricians and hvac guys with whips.
Posts: 16,152
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
My friend and I insulated the entire perimeter of his basement between the studs by putting up the foam and using GoodStuff™ spray foam in the big cans to stick it to his concrete foundation walls. We sealed the edges between the foam and the studs with the foam and the sheets were stuck in place like grim death. Nothing was going to get those off the walls.
They also serve as a vapor barrier too so no need for plastic, at least not around here according to the building inspector.
Posts: 5,732
Threads: 2
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Fort Worth
True most of the foam I have used already has a layer of plastic sheeting on it from manufacture.
That foam in a can sticks to allot of stuff very well except when you really need it to... Was sealing around the plenum for the new ac... couldn't get the black can so had to use the red and it decided to ooze down... Luckily it didn't stick to the paint on the unit. It came right off easily. But that's the only time I will be lucky like that.
Posts: 256
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2013
Pink board (R10 insulation value) definitely requires wallboard over it for fire prevention. Wall boarding would be a pain.
I used something called Dow Thermax. It does not require anything over it. When I insulated it the Building Inspector found it compliant. Two inch Thermax has a R13 insulation value.Dow was helpful when called.
Thermax used has both sides aluminized. The poured concrete wall has to be water leak free. Tommy Silva (This Old House) has a You Tube video showing how to inspect Rebars/leaks and correct.
Thermax had to be specially ordered as the big box stores did not carry the 4x8 2 inch thick sheets. Three quantity one by three inch by 8 feet firring strips held the insulation and were also held by Titebond
PL300 Foam Board Adhesive. Tapcon blue screws were drilled with a DeWalt $99 hammer drill (electric cord) through the firring and insulation. Three horizontal firring strips held the insulation.
The 7 foot high walls all had one (cut to 4x7)sheet of R13 Thermax. A second layer of insulation was added for the top four feet ( the coldest area). The second layer was held with the same adhesive and press fitted between a second layer of firring(double thickness immediately above the first( this makes R13 for the upper 4 feet).
The very large basement/garage area was insulated. Cost was about $3000. Thermax was about $53 a sheet, three inch aluminum tape, wood, and PL300 adhesive made up the rest. 44 sheets of Thermax was used. It had to be ordered in lots of qty 22.
Paul from the beautiful mid-coast of Maine (USA)
Posts: 63,467
Threads: 3
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Merryland
Just remember, cover the foam-board. Exposed foam-board (even spray foam) is a code violation. If you ever sell the home and an inspector sees it, he'll report it in his inspection as a "possible fire hazard" and a "possible safety hazard" if you ever sell your home, it could cause issues. The only real way for a seller or a buyer to prove it's to code is with a lab test which if push come to shove, the inspector will recommend.
I know there are some fire resistant foam boards and Spray foams but that won't keep it off an inspection report.
