Right tilt ts bevel cuts a problem?
#21
rwe2156 said:

there were basically no pros to a right tilt




Au contraire. Your fence on a RT is always the distance from the blade indicated by the rule on your fence rail, whether you are using a standard kerf, thin kerf, and dado kerf. That alone is a reason I've never considered upgrading.
You are entitled to your own opinions. Just not your own facts.
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#22
JGrout has it right, couldn't be easier and comes out perfect every time. Matters not if the piece is square or angled, cut them all at a 90, bury your blade in the sacrificial fence and run them through. I'm another who has ran a right tilt for a couple of decades and wouldn't trade it for a left tilt and a small pile of cash.
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#23
bandsaw said:


55 years on a tablesaw - currently 20,000+ saw cuts per year. Right tilt saw. Right handed. Work to left of blade. Left hand far from blade. Body left of kick back zone. Right hand left of blade. Blade tilts away from right hand. Left tilt saw scares the crap out of me as a right hander.




How do you push the stock thru with your right hand to the left of the blade? The piece to push is to the right of the blade.

Sounds like we have right tilt revolution started!
I'm glad my say tilts the right way. Why would I want a saw, that tilts the wrong way? (Joke)
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#24
The fence is left of the blade always. The work piece is left of the blade. I am left of the blade. My hands are left of the blade. I can push with my right hand -I'm right handed. I'm never in line with the kickback zone. The wider the work piece the further to the left I am. If a small piece was to lift and "spin back" as I call it, it goes off to the right away from me. I cringe when I watch a right hander with a fence to the right work cross handed and stand right behind the blade.
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#25
Unisaw with 52 inch capacity fence. Move rail and table to left side. Move cast iron extension to right. Right tilt. Now you've got a right handers's saw. Left tilt saw was an internet "truth" - all hype - I remember it happening.
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#26
A few years ago after reading about bevel ripping with a rt, ts, I tried it with the fence on the left side of blade.
I had a 3/4" wide x 1" high piece to bevel, leaving 1 edge 1/4" wide. With the 1/4" side on the table it saw, it was hard to keep it against the fence while cutting. I bagged that idea and cut it as usual with fence to the right of blade.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#27
bandsaw said:


Unisaw with 52 inch capacity fence. Move rail and table to left side. Move cast iron extension to right. Right tilt. Now you've got a right handers's saw. Left tilt saw was an internet "truth" - all hype - I remember it happening.





So you have set your saw up backwards!
Can't possibly cut wood that way, unless you move to the Southern hemisphere.





Just goes to show that there is more than one way to do it!





Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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#28
Pirate said:


A few years ago after reading about bevel ripping with a rt, ts, I tried it with the fence on the left side of blade.
I had a 3/4" wide x 1" high piece to bevel, leaving 1 edge 1/4" wide. With the 1/4" side on the table it saw, it was hard to keep it against the fence while cutting. I bagged that idea and cut it as usual with fence to the right of blade.




1/4 on the table? I think your tablesaw concepts are off. Cut a 45 on a wider piece and then rip off what you need. Then rip the point off to get the 1/4 flat you want.
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#29
Pirate said:


A few years ago after reading about bevel ripping with a rt, ts, I tried it with the fence on the left side of blade.
I had a 3/4" wide x 1" high piece to bevel, leaving 1 edge 1/4" wide. With the 1/4" side on the table it saw, it was hard to keep it against the fence while cutting. I bagged that idea and cut it as usual with fence to the right of blade.




That was my feeling as well, it works to have the fence on the left of the blade, but it does feel strange (at least to me). So I just took to leaving it on the right, using that right angle fence (I think Joe's linked a pic) if needed.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#30
the argument runs along the lines of the part to the right is trapped (which it is) on a RT saw. The only time it is truly dangerous is when you are ripping right off the edge of the part leaving the offcut stuck under the blade and against the fence. A standoff fence solves that issue simply and anything wider can be done the same way using two cuts or using a push block to hold the stock down and push it forward......

LT saws have a place in the world but it is a weak argument to malign a RT saw in the vein of safety
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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