So I am doing laminate and thinking the RAS might be the tool

[Bob10]

Do any of you use one for that application? I see the portable table saws being used for rips and SCMS for cross cuts. RAS does both and probably less likely to grow legs on a jobsite

[skizzo]

Sent you a PM, do I have a deal for you.

I have used it for a lot of interior laminate, baseboards, window and door casings, among many other things.

[Splinter Puller]

Europe is ahead of us on laminate flooring tools.

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/saws/a-st...saw_o.aspx

[Robert Adams]

Splinter Puller said:

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Europe is ahead of us on laminate flooring tools.

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/saws/a-st...saw_o.aspx

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What aren't they ahead of us on... Anyway those saws are available here but very pricey. There has been one on the cleveland oh craigslist for many months as well.

Also that skil laminate saw works very well. Probably their best tool.

[Bob10]

thanks to all for the info. I hadn't seen the skil saw. I will give those a look

[barnowl]

Might be OK on laminate, but on solid lumber, two different blades would be needed.

A rip and a cross cut.

[Bob10]

in these the only thing solid is the glue that is holding them together. One is this http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/pa...pe=searchresult

and the one next is this https://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/N...AMSTN5/10023750

[mike4244]

Would work with crosscuts and correct blade. Don't try it to rip.The teeth are turning up as you feed ,probably would pull the laminate up and destroy it.When you rip with a cabinet saw the teeth are pulling down,opposite of the RAS.
A router and straight edge works for me and easy to pack away .You could use a hand held circular saw .Either install the blade backwards or just pull the saw instead of pushing.You still need a straight edge.
Once you get comfortable pulling a saw you will use this method for laminates ,veneered substrates and doors.No need to mask and knife
On veneered or laminate doors,etc I make a straight edge that the saw base rides on.Prevents the base or guard from marring the finish.
I install a sharp combination blade ,about 40 to 60 tpi in the saw.Set depth so the blade only scores the work,1/8" is fine.Start at the far end and pull the saw til done.Then if you are cutting doors or thicker stock you set the blade to cut thru.This cut is a normal push cut .
No tape ,no knife ,and a perfect cut with out any chipping of laminate or veneer.
I have mentioned this method before and got a bit of flack from a couple of members.They said it was not safe,It is safe ,the blade only scores the work on the pull pass.I also got lots of emails of members that tried it and use it whenever they need to cut laminates or a substrate with veneer.I started using this method about 40+ years ago when I had to trim the bottoms of every door in a large hospital.
They were laminate doors. At first I did the tape and carbide scoring tool.After about 25 doors I thought there has to be a better way.
I started thinking about how a scoring blade like the ones we had in the shop would make it easier.I came up with this method and used it til I retired,many doors later.
mike

[Bob10]

Thanks the issue I am having is cutting thin strips with a circular saw while holding it in my hands I was using a circular saw and not having much trouble with the finish as I was cutting the side that goes under the base. As for pulling the saw it is the same when cutting granite with a worm drive pulling it keeps the chips on top to a minimum. I have one more floor to do and I should be done for a while this will be the 4th and I know I should have asked about it before now but on the 2 hour drive home I was thinking there has to be a better way. RAS popped into my mind and thought I would ask here. I was thinking of just cutting the material upside down on a RAS and something replaceable for the top of the table. I have done something similar with granite

[rwe2156]

It would work the only problem with RAS is accuracy and holding settings. They are notorious for that if the flooring boards are wider you have to monitor the cuts.

Unless you have someone doing the cutting, there's lots of up/down, which would be a game ender for me. When I've done flooring (won't do it again!!) I kept miter saw on the floor right next to me hooked to shop vac. On top of a piece of carpet.