Hey Fellas
#11
Does anyone use one of these?
Dovetail Scraper

I'm thinking about seeing if I can get one somehow.
I can't cut a dovetail to save my butt.
I have a decent chuck & I'd like to be able to use it to make some bowls.
Any thoughts, ideas, or comments on this tool?
Thanks for any help.
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#12
I have never used one. I always use my skew and have never had a problem with the bowl slipping or moving.


Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#13
chips ahoy said:


I have never used one. I always use my skew and have never had a problem with the bowl slipping or moving.


Mel




Same here. You could grind an angle on a skew to do the job also.

GM
The only tool I have is a lathe.  Everything else is an accessory.
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#14
If you think it will ease your problem, why not buy or make one? The original set of tools most of us start with usually has a "diamond point" and a "round nose" scraper. If not a scraper fan, modify one to a beading tool a la Bedan and the other to a dovetail scraper.

I have one, haven't used it in years. I use my narrow two-fanged parting tool and a gouge or skew to refine. Works for me and holds securely.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...rocess.mp4

The V grooves are being cut by a beading tool in the video.

The narrow parting tool is also very useful in trying to make continuous-grain boxes. Worth the purchase price. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/141973/...i-116.aspx
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#15
I bought one years ago after taking a turning class and seeing how easy it is to get the correct angle right off. I'd recommend getting one.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#16
I use one I made from an old bench chisel. It allows the tool to be presented 45* to the tool rest and pull towards you (you do need to cut the recess first with a parting tool or other). If you mount using a fixed headstock (faceplate, worm screw, pin chuck) it is not necessary to have it at an angle to the tool rest; only when working in a tight area with the tailstock engaged.
I can't get photobucket to work or I would add a picture.
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#17
I typically hold my bowl blank between centers which forces me to use a dovetail tenon most often (I use a shallow pointed fingernail ground bowl gouge specifically for this purpose) . Holding between centers limits the ability to get the traditional dovetail tool in and around the tail-stock to cut a dovetail mortise. It should work fine if you are using a screw chuck with the tail-stock out of the way.
There was a recent article in the AAW Journal by Mike Piece (I think that is the right name) about grinding an old scraper to a dovetail cutter to be used when the tail-stock is in place. I had the fortune to buy an old scraper a a tool swap meet at our club for $20 so I ground the profile. It works pretty good but gets a bit 'grabby' since two edges are cutting at once so a light touch is needed.
Regards, Tod
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#18
I think I have sharpened the dove tail off at least 3 times and made a new one each time. Still have a couple of inches left. They do make double edged ones as well for doing dove tail tenons. If the angle matches your chuck jaws (about 7 degrees) then to get the 'perfect' fit, you line the handle and tool shaft up with the ways of your lathe and plunge straight in. It moves to the side all by itself. I generally do finish cuts with the Fluteless gouge from Doug Thompson so the recess is clean and needs only 220 sanding. I show it in my Mounting things on the Lathe clip and my Fluteless gouge clip up on You Tube. Use a dedicated marker for proper diameter of your recess. Makes it simple.

robo hippy
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#19
I noticed Tim Yoder uses a scraper with dovetail that matches his chuck. I've thought about adding one but there are other things ahead of it on the wish list. For now I use a skew or spindle gouge.

Doug
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#20
Shop Dad said:


I noticed Tim Yoder uses a scraper with dovetail that matches his chuck. I've thought about adding one but there are other things ahead of it on the wish list. For now I use a skew or spindle gouge.

Doug




I make mine a couple degrees more acute than the jaws, that way snugging does double duty for diameter fit and wedging snug to shoulder/mortise bottom.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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