Installing Spiral pipe advice
#11
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I priced out Norfab and it was literally thousands more expensive than spiral lock. I ordered all the pipe and fittings.. The pipe is planed inside, the fittings are welded and lapped ..

So of course the fit between the pipe and fittings is crude. Some HVAC skills would be helpful

I think the pipe is 24 and the fittings are 26ga . Might be the other way around. I wonder if I buy a wiss crimper, can I crimp that pipe ?

How would you cut it ? I'm thinking drill and jig saw with appropriate blade and hearing protection.

All the pipe runs under the floor of the shop and pop's up beside the appropriate machine. I'm hoping to start hanging the pipe while the mudders tape the shop.

Any advice or techniques would be appreciated. I've never done this. Gonna use Silicone or better to seal all the joints.
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#12
Cut it with a thin cut off disc in an angle grinder. Get a couple rolls of 3" wide aluminum foil tape. The 5 blade Wiss crimper will work fine.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#13
I have a grinder.. wondered about those discs.. worried about breaking one .. will that happen ?

The crimper is okay with the thicker pipe ? That's cool .. Thanks.. Honestly its not that thick, just not home use grade.
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#14
If your pipe is supported so it can't fall, you shouldn't break a disc unless you klutz it. You will likely go through a couple or 3 small discs. A 4 1/2 or lighter 5" grinder would be best.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#15

I will just cut it on the floor .. Roll it I guess
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#16
Did they offer one piece elbows or just the sectioned?
My wholesale place here quit making the one piece and changed to sectioned. Makes no sense to me.
Luckily i already have all i need. Less drag.

Now more info on this awesome new shop!?

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#17
The fittings are welded and lapped.. I think they are directional .. meaning I need to point them the right way .. This is all they did. I would prefer the molded ones, but meh..

The pipe is planed inside .. its actually quite smooth inside. It was more expensive than not planed.

Longest run to a machine is 28 feet .. not ideal .. but it will be fine. I laid the shop out so the sanders are the closest to the DC ..

The whole system is 6".. Jointer and 2 bandsaws are the furthest away .. Shaper and Planer in the middle, Edge and Wide belt are the closest..

Table saw has its own run of pipe..

I planned a hand held 4" pipe for cleaning up around the Lathe. And another for around he DC itself .



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#18
Instead of the foil tape,there is what I think is a better choice.The foil tape does have its place in the HVAC world but not alot of strength.When I done that type of work yrs ago we would use Hard Cast tape.Which consist of a 3"wide cloth non stick tape then the casting liquid.Its only available from HVAC Supply house,but they may sell it to you.Only problem with it the pipe needs to be clean and not move till the casting drys.Another choice is hard cast vinyl tape,its like rubber that is very,very sticky on one side and foil on the other side.The young HVAC tech use this type of tape cause its easy.Me being old school I like the other Hard Cast Tape which is the tape and the Casting liquid.Both of these you will not find at HD or Lows,only at the HVAC supply house.Both of these will provide some strength but if that's not needed then the foil tape will provide a seal.
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#19
I planned on sealing the joints of the ducting with silicone .. Perhaps some elastomeric. So the tape would be somewhat redundant ?

I dunno...

I think I will do all the crawl space joints first.. lol .. Assuming the last joint I do will be more attractive than the first.
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#20
Tape would be the equivalent of Norm's " couple of brad nails".
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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