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Elmer's Woodworking Glue - the older non waterproof formula - no longer available in the big box stores - I was very comfortable with it and I miss it.
Elmer's Max - waterproof (nice improvement) - it's thick and seems to not wet the wood as well, so I worry about penetration, probably I'm wrong. I'm just not happy about having to change
Gorilla Glue - the foaming stuff - I like this in some applications but the shelf life is not great and it is messy
Titebond - many love it but I find it a little clingy. And the squeezout is harder to remove, being so hard and so well attached to the wood.
Epoxy - many types but all are more expensive and more trouble to use so only in special applications.
Hide Glue - Just not going there
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Give some of the liquid hide glue a try. Chances are you won't go back to the others.
Nice open times, totally reversible (I know you won't need that aspect). I'll quit typing,
and let you read all about it.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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https://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2013/...imal-glue/I'm convinced. Hide glue is probably the ultimate wood glue. I never thought I'd say that, never thought I'd believe that.
It's bad for me in certain circumstances, but it is the best. Squeezing yellow glue out of a bottle is easy, after all.
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Hide glue? Just tried the Titebond in the brown bottle. Did a side-by-side test with TB3 and TB hide glue. Shear strength of the hide glue after 24 hrs. was significantly weaker than TB3 - could not separate the TB3, while the TB hide glue easily snapped apart. Just one test and one situation. May be better in other situations.
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Hijacked by the hidebound! No sweat, but I was hoping for comments on modern glues as well.
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Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue 1 gal $15.95 at Menards
Menards
Life is what you make of it, change your thinking, change your life!
Don's woodshop
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Have you tried white glue? Not the school glue but glue-all. Titebond also makes a white glue for woodworking.
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Most of your modern glues are PVA (think Titebond). I use PVA all the time, so there was no intent to hijack. PVA is not gap filling, and does "creep" or slip a bit. In most cases this is not a problem, but one does have to be mindful of it. For veneer, powdered plastic resin glue is better.
Epoxy is not only gap filling, but must have a gap. There has to be a space for the epoxy to occupy.
Polyurethane cement (Gorilla) is not gap filling. Any gap will prove to be very weak.
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Thanks all, looks like Menards still carries my favorite and I might try white or brown glue sometime.
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Has anyone used 502 adhesive. It is supposed to resist creep. (And they glue together the frame of Morgan Motor Cars using this stuff.
) It is available from Amazon.com
http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=3659
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