Posts: 3,186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
Location: Near Chicago
I picked these up today for free. I never turned Willow before.... is this stuff good to turn?
The tree fell about 2 months ago.... or less.
The trunk was absolutely huge, these branches are a handful all by themselves.
Posts: 21,254
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
I try and thing I can get my hands on and free is the best. I am thinking that is a soft hard wood so keep tools sharp or the fibers will pull out.
Lots of possibilities there or even a lot of practice wood to learn how to best use the tools.
Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 3,186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
Location: Near Chicago
You're right Arlin....
Very soft wood, fibers tear easily.... AND... I'm learning about the limitations of a "Soft" wood....
The bowl below, went for the ceiling and wall.... like "Richochet Rabbit". I was just getting into cutting out the center of the bowl and things were going just fine. The tool did NOT catch or anything.
The 4 screws wasn't enough. I'll try the other chuck mount.
Posts: 14,538
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: southeastern VA
Since you have a chuck, the safer way to do things is to put the faceplate screws into what will be the waste wood inside the bowl.
With the tailstock and live center in place, rough the outside shape of the bowl and form the tenon or mortise on the bottom to go into the chuck.
Remove the faceplate and mount the bowl in the chuck.
With the tailstock and live center supporting, re-true the outside of the bowl. Then start cutting the inside of the bowl.
Once the tailstock really starts getting in your way, move it out of the way AND remove the live center. (so you do not stab your elbow into it).
Snug the chuck often on soft green wood.
Be sure that you understand which part of your chuck jaws are supposed to be touching the wood (and which should not).
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
Posts: 3,186
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
Location: Near Chicago
Thank you iclark.... all is going well now.
This willow wood, reminds me of bass wood. Even this green wood, is as light as balsa. (it seems)
and shavings galore
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Willow and its cousins the poplars do not take kindly to scraping action. They're too soft to avoid compression and tearing, especially when wet. When dry, not nearly so bad. Cutting angles and sharp edges will do 'em.
Been years since I turned the one which fell across the drive, but the final products shimmered with internal stresses after a LOT of finish was applied. Sold very well, especially the bark up (on) variations. The thick, cork-like bark really looks good. Try a couple, remembering that sanding is futile until you can get some backbone into the surface by drying.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 21,254
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
It looks like you put the screws into end grain and that never holds well. So like Ivan said use a glue block and then you can turn off the glue block later.
Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Arlin Eastman said:
It looks like you put the screws into end grain and that never holds well. So like Ivan said use a glue block and then you can turn off the glue block later.
Arlin
Willow holds a LOT of water. Longer screws the answer over trying to glue endgrain, though I used my pin chuck pretty handily. If you do the same, soften the start by spinning by hand before powering on low rpm so it won't cam out of the soft wood.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
