Tool handle finish

[Window Guy]

Another vote for Tru - Oil, great stuff and easy to apply.


Steve

[KlausK.]

Bubinga and Tru-Oil like each other If you ever have to remove the TO, it works quick with steelwool.

Klaus

[Timberwolf]

And you can remove it with lacquer thinner....just wet a rag with thinner and wipe it off....

[AUswimKC]

Wow. I feel like I've been missing out all this time. Ordered some tru-oil.

Now, for removing the lacquer...do I fill a jar with thinner and let the whole tote soak? just soak a paper towel and wrap it around the tote, scrub, wrap again and scrub til it's gone? Wondering what the easiest method is

[Timberwolf]

I just wet a Scotch-Bright pad with lacquer thinner and start rubbing it..If you are removing "real" lacquer, it may take a little longer and more work, but it WILL take it off...You can also use MEK, but whichever you use, do it outdoors and with the wind at your back. You DO NOT want to breathe the fumes...And use some latex gloves also. No point in exposing skin to the thinner, but I have done it so many times I couldn't count, and no problems.

[ronkan]

The Lee Valley description for Shellawax Liquid says the following: "Quick drying, it is best for projects up to 5" in diameter."
Why so specifically for narrow lathe turnings and what does that mean for use on other types of wood work?

[Derek Cohen]

I am not sure why LV specify 5". Shellawax was developed for turners to use on bowls. It is is wiped on while the bowl is spinning on the lathe, and dries with friction heat. The finish is smooth, clear and hard. I have used it on chisel handles, both on the lathe and off it. The latter calls for a buffing mop on a drill press or bench grinder.

I have also used Shellawax on wider surfaces. Again, all that is needed to finish is something to create friction heat. I've used a mop in a power drill.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Timberwolf]

Quote:

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I have also used Shellawax on wider surfaces. Again, all that is needed to finish is something to create friction heat. I've used a mop in a power drill.

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I have no experience with Shellawax, but from what you describe, it seems to me like it compares closely to shellac and BLO, ie, French Polish, which I have used a lot for friction polishing both by hand and on machines. I have a pint of Liberon Garnet Polish that I use that way. You can finish large surfaces with it and get a very high, deep gloss on it..If the gloss is too much, I rub it with 0000 steel wool to reduce it.

[AHill]

If you run your lathe too slow, or you have a really large turning, it's sometimes difficult to get an even coating before it dries or absorbs into the wood. I've had this problem with other similar products. A lot of other factors, e.g. temperature and RH. Once you get the technique down, you can tackle larger projects.

ronkan said:

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The Lee Valley description for Shellawax Liquid says the following: "Quick drying, it is best for projects up to 5" in diameter."
Why so specifically for narrow lathe turnings and what does that mean for use on other types of wood work?

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[Arlin Eastman]

I have used Shellawax a lot on pens, boxes, and some bowls and it wares off pretty quickly in use as in less then a year. So I do not use it on things that need long term use.

I also like True Oil in both can and spray and it is very soft and if applied a few times and then turned at a medium speed it will really sink in the wood and create a harder outer surface it seems or maybe I should call it burnishing.

Arlin