Matching an existing finish

[jteneyck]

I've been making a couple of cabinets to go with an existing kitchen. The existing cabinets are just raised panel, red oak with a typical lacquer finish. The cabinets are about 15 years old so the lacquer has yellowed quite a bit. Often, I've been able to match that color by just spraying a coat of Sealcoat shellac and then the clearcoat. Not this time.

Here's what the current doors look like:



Below the door is a small sample board. At the left is Sealcoat shellac with Transtint Dark Vintage Maple (15 ml with 3 drops). The middle sample is the same with 4 drops of Transtint. It was the right color but can you see how much darker the grain is compared to the original door. The solution to that was to apply a coat of plain Sealcoat first, sand that back lightly, and then apply the Sealcoat/Transtint. That sample is on the right. All the samples were top coated with EnduroVar Satin.

OK, I sprayed everything with Sealcoat, sanded back, and then sprayed the Sealcoat/Transtint toner. Hmmm, came out a little too yellow. I should have sprayed a large test panel first. Lesson learned - again. OK, what to do. I decided to add some Transtint Medium Brown dye to the first coat of EnduroVar to tint it back towards the red side. I made a couple more samples and found 2 drops of dye in 15 mil of EnduroVar looked good, so I made up the actually batch at the equivalent of 1 drop. Lesson learned. It looked close after one coat so I sprayed the final coat clear. And here's what some of the parts look like compared to the original door.





The color is just about right, but I'm about one shade darker than it should be. I think the owners will be OK with it though.

John

[Bob10]

OT but not completely how did you cut the profile on the outer edge of the stiles and rails. I am stuck with a kitchen project looking for a direction. I was considering changing out off the doors and drawer front but might get back just replacing a few if I can match the good that is there. Anything above easy access for someone 5'2" is fine but the crazy lady who lived in the place trashed everything she could reach

[jteneyck]

Like this, Bob. Pretty simple really. I cut the 45° with my RAS, but you could do it on the TS or even with a 45° bit in a router table. The loose tenons are a snap with my horizontal router mortiser, but you could do it other ways or use other joints, too.

John

[Bob10]

I meant the outer profile I see how the backside of it can be cut but the dish shape on the face is that a table profile?

[jteneyck]

Sorry, I didn't read what you asked for closely enough. OK, I cut the outer profile on the doors after assembly, using a portion of the profile on this roman ogee bit. I put it in my horizontal router mortiser so I could keep the doors flat, but you could do it on a router table, too, as long as the doors aren't too tall. Much easier flat, though.

John

[Bob10]

Thank you that was the info I was looking for. Too many projects currently not enough sleep thought process is suffering