So I've got these drill bits

[Stwood_]

Pine logging, or pine drilling?

[mike4244]

A brad point bit is not for drilling metal ,it is for wood and yes it is very good for keeping it in line and for getting started. Center point drills are for metal.

Correct, also center point drills may be known as bullet point drills.

[Richard D.]

Three years and 64 posts later and nobody ever mentioned that the 1/2" bit was probably spinning to fast. That would account for the burning. A dull bit and pressing to hard could also be a part of the problem but chances are it's the speed.

[Stwood_]

Most likely, less than 10,000............................

[Redman]

Well that shouldn't have been a problem since you were drilling wood. Even on metal there is occasion to run a drill that fast or faster.

Now if the drill was running at that speed and not being fed (moved forward) at a pretty good clip then that might be the cause of the burning. The blowout was probably caused by the drill grabbing the wood as it broke through. You really need to feed a drill very fast at such an rpm.

Of course if you were drilling oak, hickory, ash or some other very hard dense wood then neither a wooden or metal drill bit will work. You need a diamond drill bit, after all diamonds can stand the heat and pressure because that is the way they are made.

[Timberwolf]

that my grandfather gave me around 40 years ago.
He told me they were for steel, and some wood sometimes.

I've used them on steel, a lot.

I grabbed a 1/2" bit the other day and was going to drill some holes for a dowel in some pine. After the smoke cleared out of the shop, I noticed that it blowed the bottom of the wood 2x out.
Are these not the correct bits? I remember reading somewhere that someone now makes a special bit for wood? Some brad point thing? What's a brad got to do with a drill bit?

...................
A drill bit for steel is normally sharpened at 59* for best performance, but should be ground to a steeper angle for wood or aluminum, with a little more clearance...And wood should be "peck drilled"...that is you stab a little, then raise the bit out of the wood to allow the chips to clear the flutes, then stab again. With an ordinary twist drill, you can expect there to be some "blow out" as it exits the wood...wood is fibrous and these bits do not cut the fibers as cleanly as those bits designed for it.

Learn how to sharpen your own bits by checking Youtube...mrpete222 has a good video of how to do it.

[Stwood_]

I gotta get the snake bite healed up first.........

[Redman]

Did you suck the poison out? You need a special poison sucker for that you know.

[Redman]

So anyhow back to the drilling. If you wish to use the peck drilling method you really need a CNC drilling machine to do this efficiently and to prevent running into the bottom of the hole when re-entering and causing the drill to break. The machine will have the G83 peck drilling cycle (canned cycle) built in. However if you are drilling through multiple walls of a piece of work you would need to use the G81 drill code and get creative with the R and K values associated with that particular canned cycle. By creative I mean you R and K are advance and retract codes. You will advance to the first hole, drill though and retract forward with the K value to the next hole. When finished you will retract again using the K code to completely remove the drill from the work.

[Stwood_]

Did you suck the poison out? You need a special poison sucker for that you know.

No. Can I borrow one if you have it?

R and K are advance and retract codes.

Any more info on those codes?