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I started with a 2x6, and centered a 2x4 at a right angle to it, and found a rubber floor mat with hairy spikes, similar to the pic below but the spikes were irregular, and the ends are pointy. I cut the mat up into 2x6 size, and floor glued it to the bottoms. Awesome grip on any wood I have pushed through the jointer, and the 2x4 grip fits perfectly into my palm. Been using the same ones for almost 20 years.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Simpler and cheap solution.... Tile Floats.
Can be had for only $4. Have a large rubber surface that is very grippy. Have a large handle and keep my fingers well protected.
“Poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of cheap price is forgotten”
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®smpr_fi_mac® said:
Has anybody else done this? I have a set of foam padded blocks and really don't like their lack of grip in use. This mod seems neat, and at first glance, looks like it would work well.
Thoughts?
I bored two holes for 3/8 dowels at rear of blocks. 2" long and driven about 3/8" projection. If you happen to clip off some of the dowel,tap it down further.
mike
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7NguY5e2RU
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I joint too much stock that is close to finished size for that to be appealing. Also, I hate the idea of metal like that around the blades.
Personally, I use the
GRR-RIP BLOCKs from Microjig The grip is MUCH better than stock push blocks, and they feature 'smart hooks' on each end that provide extra push if needed, but they are not often needed. I use them on the router table and the bandsaw all the time too.
Ralph
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While others are focusing on the block, I will point to the jointer bed. Do you keep it well waxed. A slippery surface underneath greatly helps the push blocks on top.
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
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Cecil said:
While others are focusing on the block, I will point to the jointer bed. Do you keep it well waxed. A slippery surface underneath greatly helps the push blocks on top.
Yes? Maybe?
I haven't used a powered jointer in months. For a while I did it by hand and then ran the wood through the planer. I just got an old (1920) 8" jointer running and am prepping for it.
In cleaning it up, I used a lot of wax and a razor blade to remove rust. It's well waxed and I'll make sure I keep it that way.
Semper fi,
Brad
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I found that when the foam pad push blocks were slipping, new push blocks solved the problem. Like other posters have stated, I would would not want small holes in the wood.
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I have a set of push blocks with mending plates on them. They have a whole lot more grip than standard crappy foam blocks.
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handi said:
Personally, I use the GRR-RIP BLOCKs from Microjig The grip is MUCH better than stock push blocks, and they feature 'smart hooks' on each end that provide extra push if needed, but they are not often needed. I use them on the router table and the bandsaw all the time too.
Ralph
I have this too and love it. They aren't very expensive either.
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i replaced the mending plates on my home made push blocks (2x6 blocks and 3/4" black pipe handles wrapped in hockey tape) to drywall screws driven right through the 2x6s through the bottom. they grip much, much better than the mending plates.