Finishing holly!
#11
I'm doing some small boxes mainly from AF mahogany with holly splines. I'm trying to retain the whiteness of the holly ,what would be the best clear finish to do this ?
Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently. "HF"
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#12
Spray lacquer should look good on both woods.

John
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#13
jteneyck said:


Spray lacquer should look good on both woods.

John




Thanks for the suggestion, I'm not really a lacquer guy but gave it a try , very happy with how both boxes turned out. The holly strayed white , ( it wasn't pure white ) but at least it didn't yellow .
Thanks again.
Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently. "HF"
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#14
Happy to hear you were pleased. I don't often use lacquer either, but for small projects those spray cans do a very good job with minimal effort. Plus it dries so fast you can be done in a couple of hours.

John
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#15
For future reference, all lacquers are not the same. Nitrocellulose lacquers (common among some rattle can lacquers) have a definite yellowing factor. Other lacquers, like many acrylics, are often "water clear". There are lots and lots of lacquers out there. They are not created equally.
"Mongo only pawn in game of life."        Mongo
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#16
Jerry,

Water-based acrylic varnish, e.g., Minwax Polycrylic or some other brand is colorless and does not yellow as far as I know.

Doug
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#17
The reason I didn't recommend acrylics, WB or otherwise and especially Polycrylic, is that they often look dead on mahogany unless you first dye the wood or add some dye to the finish. NC rattle can lacquer looks great on mahogany and yellows very slowly.

John
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#18
jteneyck said:


The reason I didn't recommend acrylics, WB or otherwise and especially Polycrylic, is that they often look dead on mahogany unless you first dye the wood or add some dye to the finish. NC rattle can lacquer looks great on mahogany and yellows very slowly.

John



The strategy I use is to overcoat only the holly with BIN Shellac (e.g. applied using an artists brush for fine details). Then you can apply whatever topcoat you want and it won't stain the holly.

-Mark
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#19
Yes, that works very well. I've done that when I wanted to dye a piece that had some maple stringing in it. It wasn't that hard to do, and the shellac kept the WB dye off the maple perfectly. Just don't use an alcohol based dye.

John
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#20
MKepke said:


[blockquote]jteneyck said:


The reason I didn't recommend acrylics, WB or otherwise and especially Polycrylic, is that they often look dead on mahogany unless you first dye the wood or add some dye to the finish. NC rattle can lacquer looks great on mahogany and yellows very slowly.

John



The strategy I use is to overcoat only the holly with BIN Shellac (e.g. applied using an artists brush for fine details). Then you can apply whatever topcoat you want and it won't stain the holly.

-Mark


[/blockquote]

I'll have to file that tip away in the Ole brain for future use. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.
Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently. "HF"
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