Will a plunge router fix this?

[Shovel Man]

Have had good results just plunging my old 690 and proceeding, but today I have a precision task to do on the edge of sheet goods, (too big for the router table). I'm getting a little bobble on entering and exiting the groove. It's a narrow grove so multiple passes won't work. Will a plunge router deliver very precise entry and exit?

I have already guessed your answer so now a second question, which router? Big power is off the table here for a variety of reasons so is there a good quality small plunge router?

[arthropod98]

i've got the dewalt trim router with plunger, and it's great . . . sounds like it might be poifect for this task!

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

The answer is yes. But it also comes with a BUT. Whenever you are doing multiple passes with a plunge router you need to keep the router orientation the same on each pass. By this I mean the edge you have against the fence must stay there. If you start spinning the router there is a possibility that the bit is not centered in the router in relation the the base. Hope that makes sense.

Now you can get away with your standard router by putting a couple of straight edge pieces on each side of the router's path so that it does not wobble.

[Brian in sunny FL]

You can buy a plunge base for your 690 but a plunging trim router might have other uses for you and you don't need anything large for a small groove..

[handi]

Not sure of your application, but another option is to drill holes at the ends of the slot. These allow you to start without a plunge router.

As mentioned above, a plunge base can be gotten for your 690, probably quite cheaply. The dual base 690 was the only router used in professional shops for decades before all the others finally joined the market.

As for turning the base spoiling the line, this is true if your black sub-base is not concentric. To make it true, loosen the screws and lower the base until the tip of the collet nut contacts the sub-base. This will set the sub-base concentric. The end of the collet nut is tapered for exactly this purpose. Tighten the screws and you can rotate the router all you want with no visible change to your line.

Ralph

[Steve N]

JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

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Whenever you are doing multiple passes with a plunge router you need to keep the router orientation the same on each pass. By this I mean the edge you have against the fence must stay there. If you start spinning the router there is a possibility that the bit is not centered in the router in relation the the base. Hope that makes sense.

Now you can get away with your standard router by putting a couple of straight edge pieces on each side of the router's path so that it does not wobble.

---

Agree with this, orientation, and also something to keep the router from going side to side as that will press the cut deeper when you lean outward, and taller when you lean toward the wood.

Winner winner chikun dinner




Also pad out parallel to the edge with something to support the routers outer edges, again to keep from tipping.

[BpB123]

Not sure the profile of your bit .. but, have you considered using a slot cutter and cleaning up the ends with a chisel?

This would allow you to use the large flat side of the sheet goods for stability of the cut and a bearing or collar to control the depth

just a thought

-Brian

[Richard D.]

I've got several 690's and use plenty of others at work. The plunge base sucks. It's hard to get on and off and the action isn't smooth. The springs are always too rigid. Great router but not for plunging.

[Shovel Man]

When I tried a couple of plunge routers in the store it didn't seem that the action would be any better than my edge guided plunge, but going onto the edge of sheet material I was getting some wobble. An extended foot on my guide going 4" down the side of the sheet fixed that and it's going fine now.

So in answer to my OP, no.

[Shovel Man]

Thanks Richard, that confirms what I found on a you tube video, I won't waste money on the 690 plunge base.