Cutting Steel siding on a Morton building
#21
+1 You should also use a Full face shield and respirator. I only Highlighted eye protection because one exposure could result in total blindness. I felt a chip hit my cheek when doing this. Didn't bother me a bit, just made me think to warn my friends
Reply
#22
I had to cut out some openings for doors last year.
I just used my circular saw with regular carbide wood blade.
Yea use eye protection.

The year before I cut up an old 20' Aluminum boat with the same saw and blade.
Cut it like butter got $350 for the scrap metal (700 pounds)
Reply
#23
Evolutino makes a cheap saw for just this purpose- it has lower RPMs so less heat and spark, though full face protection is still suggested
This is the combo saw, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QX7P1Y/ref...F8&me= When I looked at one on Amazon last week, they were down to $88, but prices have gone up a littel. they make one that is a little more rugged for more dedicated metal cutting.
Reply
#24
Use a circ saw with a carbide metal cutting blade. Cut the metal from the back side. Screw on a straight edge from the waste side.

I have a lot of experience cutting metal roofing.

Shears and nibblers are a PITA you'll see why when you cut over a ridge.

Abrasive wheels melt the paint and leave a horribly torn up edge. However, if you're using a J channel its not as critical.

BTW, for years I used a circ saw blade put on backwards (non carbide if you can find one) Works amazingly well!

No need to mention ear, eye protection and gloves are a must.
Reply
#25
Thanks for the suggestions, sounds like a job I may want to hire out.
Reply
#26
The Morton crew that built mine used a nibbler
Reply
#27
sroxberg said:


Thanks for the suggestions, sounds like a job I may want to hire out.




LOL... geez! its not that hard nor is it rocket science. Just try a test cut.
WoodNET... the new safespace
Reply
#28
A steel (non-carbide) 24 tooth blade mounted backwards is what I remember. LOUD and hearing protection was for woosies at the time. Huh? What? :huh:
Reply
#29
Use a set of snips, I normally use a 12" set. Just like large scissors and you can buy them at Home Depot, Menard, etc. Shouldn't set you back more than $25 for a good American made set.

I have cut hundreds of feet of steel ribbed siding. Most steel is delivered to the jobsite cut to length but gable ends we cut on site. It only takes 30 seconds to cut across the width. Rip cuts we use a three blade electric shear.
Reply
#30
I use a 4" grinder with a 1/16" thick cutoff wheel.
Shears are a pain to use.
Safety glasses, ear plugs
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.