Plumbing In A Hose Bib
#11
gonna add one to the front of the house, its yet another thing I wanted that didn't get done. Builder only put one on the back. I was under there this past weekend looking things over. In theory its as simple as drill a hole through the rim joist, add the sillcock then run about 12' of pex and tie into an existing 3/4" line. I'm planning to pre-assemble everything so that all I have to do under the house is cut the pex to length and splice it in. However I'm sure since it's plumbing there's something thats going to bite me.
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#12
1) Distance between house and ground is less than the arms of the pex crimp tool.

2) You cut the main line crooked or too short to bridge with the tee.

3) You forget to put in an isolation valve that you regret later.

4) You forget freeze protection.

5) Snake living under house.
Shame on the men who can court exemption from present trouble and expense at the price of their own posterity's liberty! - Samuel Adams
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#13
Mandrake said:


1) Distance between house and ground is less than the arms of the pex crimp tool.

2) You cut the main line crooked or too short to bridge with the tee.

3) You forget to put in an isolation valve that you regret later.

4) You forget freeze protection.

5) Snake living under house.




1. It isn't
2. 3/4" line is already there, I'm just adding a T to get to the new hose bib.
3. This is a ways away from the entrance to the crawl space. Rather than pull 50-60 feet of pex I'm going with no isolation valve. 'Course I might regret that... Maybe I ought to add one, even if I have to crawl to get to it.
4. Conditioned crawl space, no worries about freezing
5. Snakes are skeert of me, even if there is one under there

This is as easy as it gets, and I'm sure there will still be a problem later.
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#14
Make sure you're tapping into a cold water line; the plumber who did my house connected it to the hot line...... they say he drank on the job.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#15
Make sure the assembly is set with the faucet end lower than the connection---so water drains out when shut off.
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#16
Crocket likely won't need freeze proof, but its nice to have. That area doesn't get cold enough long enough as a general rule.

It might be normal now, but not historical for that area.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets. 

"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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#17
K. L, McReynolds said:


Make sure the assembly is set with the faucet end lower than the connection---so water drains out when shut off.




Yep.. this is why they come with a tapered plastic mounting plate. Install it so there is drainage. I've installed freeze proof units the wrong way and they will freeze and split.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#18
thooks said:


I'm seeing low negative temperatures for lows in the winter.




I've been here 22 years and never seen negative temps. Maybe in the mountains. It does get cold enough to freeze, but as I said, my crawlspace is lined and conditioned. It's one thing I insisted on. I was spoiled by the full basement at the old house and didn't want to be under there thawing pipes.
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#19
K. L, McReynolds said:


Make sure the assembly is set with the faucet end lower than the connection---so water drains out when shut off.




Good idea.
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#20
crokett™ said:


[blockquote]thooks said:


I'm seeing low negative temperatures for lows in the winter.




I've been here 22 years and never seen negative temps. Maybe in the mountains. It does get cold enough to freeze, but as I said, my crawlspace is lined and conditioned. It's one thing I insisted on. I was spoiled by the full basement at the old house and didn't want to be under there thawing pipes.


[/blockquote]

All crawlspace should be done that way. We are looking at houses there and few have it done and most all houses there are pier and beam without garages. So it'll be part of negotiations when we buy.
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