Unlevel floor

[Bobby Thompson]

About 10 years ago I installed a patio cover on the side of my shop to store lawnmowers, tillers, etc. Since it could get rain under it, I sloped it to drain off one side. I have since closed it in and used it for storage. I just purchased a surface grinder and have no place in the shop for it, I want to use this space. The floor is sloped 1 1/2" in 7'. Can anyone advise me of the best way to level it other than breaking it up and starting over? The space is 24' long.

[gMike]

Is the floor concrete or wood?

[Bob10]

what supports the walls? is there raised foundation of sorts?

[Woodenfish]

Not a good start to place a building but I understand life happens. How about calling a mud jacking outfit for a consultation?

[Mr_Mike]

Why not level the tool instead? Seems infinitely easier.

Leveling 180 sq feet of space for one tool?

Given common 2x walls, your sill plate is 1 1/2" You could over-pour a lightweight self-leveling concrete up to the top of the sill plate. I'd check with local contractors on what might be available.

Then, when done, your still gonna level up the grinder to some degree.

[Bob10]

my thought also with regard to self leveling depending what he had on the low side to keep it in place

[theeviltwinn]

Another method would be to rip sleepers to the slope and lay 3/4 plywood on top.

Twinn

[bottd]

I would go with the leveling the tool, or fora smaller tool a heavy duty level shelf. Lots of folks use their garage with a sloped floor for shops.

[mike4244]

Leveling the tool is one way already mentioned. If I understand you correctly the floor is 1-1/2" out of level for 24'-0".The shed is 7-0" wide.If you need the entire floor level I would install a 2x2 24'-0" on the low side perimeter.
Lay a 7-'0" straight edge square to the 2x2 and on top.Next piece can be a rip of 5/4 decking which probably measures 1'-1/16".Don't be concerned with 16" spacing.The decking thickness will determine that.Next try 3/4 or 5/8" stock. 3/8" plywood next and probably the last piece. You can use subfloor adhesive and screws to install plywood.
If the existing floor is concrete then tapcons would be a good choice for the areas that are less than 1" .
You could rip 7'-0" tapered sleepers also instead of running lumber the long way.
Put 30 lb tar paper down first if the original floor is concrete.May pay to lay out where the feet will be and make those areas solid.Easiest way to do this is to fasten cats between sleepers and then fill with sand.A concrete mix is what most people would use, if the sand is contained ,caulk the bottom of the cell, then sand is all you need.
1000 lbs evenly distributed is not anything to be concerned about.

mike

[Bobby Thompson]

The slope is on the 7" length. The highest point is next to the shop floor and slopes away from it. The entire slab is 1 1/2 inches below the shop floor and has a footing on the ends and the outside. I am moving my surface grinder (which weighs 2246 lbs) in it. I think I have decided to break out enough of the slab to get at least 2.5 inches of concrete. I remeasured and the slab has a 2" slope. I can drill holes and epoxy rebar to tie it to the shop floor and existing footings. Then the entire area will be tied out in rebar. I would like to pour a footing where the grinder will set which will require breaking it out to the footings in that area. I am also moving my bead blaster, buffers, and grinders. I am attempting to refurb all my handplanes, including new jappaning, zinc plating the lever caps where applicable, and sharpening. I am gearing up to turn my lathe into a CNC to turn knobs. I also have other uses for the grinder.