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Bought this blade from Texas Knife. 303 SS pins. finished in satin lacquer.
![[Image: 600x600.jpg]](https://a2-images.myspacecdn.com/images04/2/910d8ae56c6143fd8f81f34311e6208e/600x600.jpg)
![[Image: 600x600.jpg]](https://a3-images.myspacecdn.com/images04/9/7fff4061594c46afa6825ae81f510583/600x600.jpg)
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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(07-31-2016, 07:07 PM)SteveS Wrote: Bought this blade from Texas Knife. 303 SS pins. finished in satin lacquer.
If it cuts and stays sharp its a keeper.
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What alloy is the blade and how hard is it?
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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Not crazy about knives, but I love that wood.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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(07-31-2016, 08:06 PM)blackhat Wrote: What alloy is the blade and how hard is it?
ringtail skinner
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440C isn't the greatest or the worst alloy. I hope they did a decent job of hardening and tempering before they cryo'd. Its a nice looking blade design and should prove useful. I am partial to rosewood scales and you've done a nice job. How does the balance feel with that stainless guard? Is it point heavy?
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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Beautiful looking knife, hopefully it will keep a good edge. Love the wood scales looks rich.
Steve
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Very nice.
Just from a practical stand point I always eliminate the lanyard hole. They serve no purpose other than to collect blood and guts.
Mark
I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver
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I have a different set of knives that are used for the actual processing of animals. Thin, carbon steel blades are much preferred to stainless in their ability to get sharper than stainless steels. Beaver or buffalo skinners or ulus are preferred as knives with points are much more likely to pierce the hide.
This knife will probably never get used in the field, at least by me. I also find no use for lanyard holes other than aesthetics. I just like doing them as projects. I'll probably give it away at some point.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
