Cheat sheet for finishing? Thinners, cleaning, etc...

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

I'm compiling a list/spreadsheet of materials that are used with each finish.

For example;

* Shellac and shellac flakes- mixes with 190 proof Denatured Alcohol - Thinned with DNA or Lacquer thinner - Tools/brushes are cleaned with DNA or Lacquer thinner.
* Latex paint - thinned with room temperature water - Tools/brushes are cleaned with soapy water

etc, etc... with all the finishes you can think of, including gels, stains, oil and water based topcoats, etc...


I know that the general rule is to clean "Like with Like", but I'd like to make this spreadsheet available to our customers at the hardwood store, where beginners are abundant. Generally, I just refer them to the back of the can, but several now have asked if we have such a cheat sheet.

Thanks in advance!

[Joel H.]

Oils/Varnish/Polyurethane are thinned/cleaned with mineral spirits (MS)  (Natural bristle brush)

Shellac is mixed with Denatured Alcohol (DNA) and cleaned with either DNA or Ammonia  (Natural bristle brush)

Lacquer is thinned/cleaned with lacquer thinner.

Water based paint/finishes - H2O  (Synthetic brush)

These are the common thinners/cleaners and brushes for application.  There may be more.  I know I've heard of another good shellac mixer but have never used it.

Joel

[fredhargis]

Your customers are going to save quite a bit of money, and get their tools cleaner if they use household ammonia to clean up any shellac. it absolutely destroys the stuff. The only caution would be that ammonia can stain aluminum, like spray gun cups.

[Rob Young]

I'm compiling a list/spreadsheet of materials that are used with each finish.

For example;

*  Shellac and shellac flakes- mixes with 190 proof Denatured Alcohol - Thinned with DNA or Lacquer thinner - Tools/brushes are cleaned with DNA or Lacquer thinner.
*  Latex paint - thinned with room temperature water - Tools/brushes are cleaned with soapy water

etc, etc... with all the finishes you can think of, including gels, stains, oil and water based topcoats, etc...


I know that the general rule is to clean "Like with Like", but I'd like to make this spreadsheet available to our customers at the hardwood store, where beginners are abundant. Generally, I just refer them to the back of the can, but several now have asked if we have such a cheat sheet.

Thanks in advance!

An extender for shellac is turpentine.  I'd have to go find MY notes but it needs to be REAL turps (not the substitute, so a trip to the art store or on-line to purchase) and I think the maximum ratio is 1tsp turps to 4oz or 8oz (that's the part I can't remember) of shellac.  And I can't remember if there is a pound-cut component to the reducer ratio either.

So far, for me, the starting point for thinning acrylic latex and enamel latex paints for spraying has been to get them to a 40 second cup time and adding 3oz water + 3oz Floetrol (not a thinning agent) gets me dang close on the first try.  After that I just piddle in an ounce or so of water until the cup tells me I'm 40 seconds.

When Greg and I were messing about with the spray guns, I showed him how cleaned up after shellac.  A splash (probably 4-6oz) of alcohol into the cup, dip a rag in there and wipe down what I could, then close up the cup and slosh it about.  Spray out.  Then about 2/3 cup of water and a healthy splash of sudsy ammonia.  How much exactly is a "healthy splash"?  Enough that I could smell it and the water felt just a little bit soapy.  Damp the rag again and wipe what needs wiping.  Then spray out.  And a final spray out with clean water followed by pushing some air to dry things.  

Since we were switching between products to experiment with a couple different systems, there was much more cleaning going on than one might normally do.

But the ammonia did a good job on shellac, acrylic latex, enamel latex and the GF milk paint (acrylic again).

[Rob Young]

So, been flipping around various finish manufacturer's web sites looking at data sheets.  And I'm finding there isn't a lot of standardization in the viscosity reporting units.  Sometimes they just give it in seconds with no cup size mentioned.  Other times they say a #4 Ford or a #2 Zahn or perhaps if they are feeling particularly scholarly, in centipoise.

So I found what looks to be a nice conversion chart that lists all kinds of different measurement units and lets you move back and forth between them.  Some interpolation is necessary if you want an exact conversion but most HVLP spray gun instructions give their recommendations in ranges.  Just get it close and you are good to go.

Nifty viscosity conversion table

[Mr Eddie]

Your customers are going to love these notes and especially the tips for cleanup.  Great idea Greg!

Lonnie

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

Yeah, I'm getting great info. Learning tons myself, too.

Thanks to all who've contributed. Keep it coming!

[Window Guy]

That sounds like a great idea and I am sure your customers would love to get their hands on information like that.  I struggle with using the right materials for cleaning at times.


Steve