How much Power?
#11
Hello all,

Have a new shop soon to be setup and am probably going to do a sub panel. Most of the big tools are 220v, have a 5hp tablesaw and a 3 hp dust collector etc..  What size panel have you found worked for you and what are you running on it?


Thanks!

Brad
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#12
Brad,

Good article here:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-...hop-wiring

I have a 24 X 30 shop full of power tools, large and small, including a 220 amp welder. I have never had a problem with my 60 amp 220v sub panel, although my table saw is only 3HP, 220v. You might want to go a size larger than my panel, particularly if your shop is very far from your main panel. The smaller the panel the smaller the wire supplying it; you want adequate wire size to avoid any significant voltage drop under starting load which can shorten the life of your large motor.

One consideration is how many persons will be using a power tool at the same time at the same time? I am almost always the only one using anything other than a small hand tool.
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#13
I have a 60A 220V panel in my shop and its fine.

If I was building new, and had the ability, id go 100A just for grins.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#14
I have a separate shop and it's powered by an 80A subpanel.

I mostly work alone and my max planned simultaneous use is about 70A.  I based on 20A for 3HP saw, 20A for dust collector, 15A for lights, and 15A for gas furnace, and that would be on the extreme end as the steady state draw for this combo is probably significantly less.  Been in the shop over two years now and have yet to trip a breaker.
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#15
60 amps is plenty, but truthfully going to 100 amps (assuming you have a source for the power) isn't going to be that much more and will give you plenty of power for anything you choose to do. I had 100 amps in both of my last 2 shops.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#16
Determine the largest machines and loads, and the largest pair or trio that will run under load simultaneously, and multiply the nameplate FLA figure by 120V or 240V, as applicable.

Also determine the wattage of lighting, heaters, etc. that will also run concurrently, or multiply rated current by 120V or 240V (also as applicable).  You want to end up with watts (lighting, small tools, and resistive loads like heaters) and volt-amps (motors, welders, other inductive machines).

Add it all up, and divide by 240V.  That's the worst-case average (across both hot legs) load in current, and you should size your feeder to at least 125% of that.  More if you think you'll be adding something very large (or a number of smaller things) that will increase the worst-case loading on the feeder, or if it's not likely you'll be able to balance the 120V loads across the two poles of the panel (like big 120V machines).

Remember that 120V loads only load one pole in that new subpanel, but there are two of them (hence the 2-pole feeder breaker).  A 60A subpanel ampacity will give you 120A at 120V, or 60A at 240V, or any combination of the two that doesn't exceed either 14,400 volt-amps total (or watts, for resistive loads) and 60A on either hot leg.  Balance the 120V circuits on the two hot legs, especially the continuous loads (lighting is considered continuous) to keep current loading even.  240V loads are balanced by definition, since they use both hot legs (what comes out of one goes back through the other, reversing 120 times per second with 60Hz power).

You cannot just add up the current of all the loads, as 240V loads use both poles, and 120V loads use only one, and that has to be taken into account.  


I think you'll find 60A is plenty.  Unless you're running very large machines under load simultaneously, or kilns or furnaces, or electric heat, or air-arcing (cutting steel with an arc welder outputting very high current and compressed air to blow the molten metal away).  
Laugh
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#17
I'm running off the main panel in the new house but in my last shop I had a 100 amp sub panel. I ran a single 30 amp 220v circuit and 4 110v. Obviously I didn't max the capacity but I'd rather that.

Here I still just have the one 220v but dropped to just 2 110v circuits. Truthfully I don't miss the other 110v circuits. I do wish I had another a 220v circuit but my panel is full and I'm debating whether it's worth it to install a sub panel here.

*lighting circuits not included in either.
-Marc

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#18
I agree with Fred. As long as you're at it, go with a 100 amp panel. It's not that much more expensive than a 60 or an 80, and you'll never have to worry about having enough. I have a basement shop. Several years ago, I put in a 100 amp sub panel just for he shop. I'm very happy with it. I can run my 5hp DC and multiple machines at the same time with no trouble.
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#19
Yes, a 100 amp panel isn't much more expense but unmentioned in the OP or replies is how far the shop is from the main panel. If it is like my shop, about 50 ft. from the house, the larger sized wire for 100 amps will be the bigger expense.
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#20
Price out the difference between 60 and 100 amp boxes and consider how much you might want to add to your shop in the future.

When I wired my future shop area 25 years ago 220 wasn't a consideration; now I've got 4 220v machines.

Plus my 3-phase converter.

A small investment in more power now can save a lot of headaches in the future.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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