Slippery Stair Tread
#11
Question 
Hey gang...quick question.  Looking for someone who has refinished hardwood stairs/treads.  Might know that I'm in the middle of a renovation project at my house as I've posted several questions along the way.  I've run into a bit of a problem and looking for some real world advice.



Solid Oak Tread Finish schedule:
- 1 coat Transtint water based dye.
- 1 coat Minwax water based sanding sealer.
- Light sanding with 220 to knock down grain.
- 1 coat GF Gel Stain
- 2 coats Minwax Poly for Floors in Satin
- Very light sanding with 600 (thinking this is my issue)
- 1 final coat of Minwax poly.

I was thinking that the satin finish of the Minwax would be ok....however the treads that are done are way too slippery when wearing only socks.  My house gets a lot of visitors/family so to try and make a "no sock" rule wouldn't be very effective.

I didn't really think too much when using the 600 grit paper to take down the dust nibs before the final coat.  Came as a habit from finishing oak furniture projects.  So do I consider the last sanding with something like 180 grit and then lay down the last coat?

Or do I bite the bullet...admit that I bought the wrong product for treads...and use something else that would increase the friction coefficient while not detracting from a well done finish (aka...not some kind of additive to the Minwax product)

I've read tons of treads on other forums where people are just guessing/suggesting something to try....really hoping there is someone here who's done this before and can recommend the right/professional solution.

Thanks!
Kevin
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#12
No help, I'm afraid, but I did note the GF points out the "superior slip resistance" of several of it's WB floor finishes. 

John
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#13
There was a recent 360 with 360 audio blog over at 360 Woodworking about "strange additives" in finishing formulas.  One idea that sticks (ha! pun!) would be to add a little something to a final coat that will give some tooth.  Not sure if silica, larger than what would normally be used as a flattening agent, might work.  There could be some issues with obscuring the grain but then again, the grain is so prominent in oak, it probably isn't an issue.

Another additive discussed was fine sawdust (i.e. wood flour) for the purposes of grunging up things.  Maybe a little of that would roughen the surface.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#14
I have oak stairs in my home.
The 600 is way too fine.
However,  a few weeks use(assuming you folks wear shoes in your home) should knock down the slipperiness
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#15
(08-10-2016, 12:03 PM)Woodjets Wrote: I have oak stairs in my home.
The 600 is way too fine.
However,  a few weeks use(assuming you folks wear shoes in your home) should knock down the slipperiness

We do wear shoes...but I've read several reports where a few weeks time didn't help...some folks saying they were a year+ in and still too slippery.  But then again...who waits a YEAR and still does nothing about it?

I'm applying the second coat of poly tonight to the even-numbered stairs (did every other so we could still get up/down).  Tomorrow when I go in for the final application...I'll scuff it with 180 grit...apply the final and then check on Friday how it feels.  If it helped/made a difference.  I'll go back to the odd-numbered stairs...scuff em with 180 and apply a 4th coat.
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#16
Came across Bona's Traffic Anti-Slip.  I'll have to order it online...but at 100 bucks...I'll try the 180-grit final sanding...then wait a few weeks of use...and decide
Smile
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#17
Suggest you consider this non skid compound.  Worked like a champ on my steep stairs with narrow risers.  http://www.iboats.com/Interlux-Intergrip...hgod27oJ6g 

Dave
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#18
Thanks, but that states it's a paint additive...not sure it would be compatible with polyurethane. Plus...I don't want the treads to look like sandpaper.  I like the appearance of the satin finish...
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#19
(08-10-2016, 02:52 PM)brnhornt Wrote: Came across Bona's Traffic Anti-Slip.  I'll have to order it online...but at 100 bucks...I'll try the 180-grit final sanding...then wait a few weeks of use...and decide
Smile

Welp...that didn't work.  Checked this morning and the 180-sanded treads feel just about as slick as the first round.  Just going to have to live with it for a few weeks and if it doesn't get better from use then I'll bite the bullet and give the Bona product a try.  I spoke with their technical support group and said it's fine to apply it over the oil-based poly...but to be sure and give it 2-4 weeks to fully cure.

I'll update this thread down the road with a comment about the Bona product if I end up going that route.

Thanks all!
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#20
Last ditch solution -- a case of these by the front door...
https://www.amazon.com/Medline-Blue-Adul...lip+slocks
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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