WTB: No. 4, No. 5, No. 7 Planes, Router Plane Veritas or LN, LN LA rabbet block plane
#11
Evening everyone!

I am looking to buy the above tools with the following notes:

I would like the No. 7 to have an incredibly flat sole, preferably LN or Veritas.
The No. 4 and No. 5 planes if they are Stanley be pre WWII and obviously in the best shape possible given the age.
The router plane I would like to be closed throat.
LA means low angle on the rabbet block plane, LN preferred. 

Thank you for your time!

Chris
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#12
Might I suggest, 

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/
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#13
They sell used?
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#14
Did you just join the KCWG? If so, if you can hang on until the Feb-Mar timeframe, that's usually when Lie Nielsen comes to town and has their demo and sale there at the guild building. There's a guild special, too.

It's a great deal, and you can try out all their tools.
" The founding fathers weren't trying to protect citizens' rights to have an interesting hobby." I Learn Each Day 1/18/13

www.RUSTHUNTER.com
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#15
I have not yet. It is on the TODO list. I had no clue about LN coming to town. Thank you for the heads up!
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#16
HomerLee, you have PM's disabled. I tried to send you one.
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#17
I would strongly suggest one of the Woodnetters who rehabs and flattens all the planes to .0015.  You can see one of his posts here

https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7322166


He gets them flatter on the bottom and sides then most manufactures.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#18
^+1

Highly recommend TableSawTom
WoodTinker
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#19
And yet more fantastic tips/leads. Thank you!
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#20
Chris:  We all know why we like absolutely flat soles.  It's the concept, and comforting.  And I can also second the recommendation of Tom as he knows what he is doing and does it well. More fudge have screwed the pooch trying to flatten soles, its not hard to screw it up and even harder to fix a botched job.

But remember, all that is truly needed is for the sole to be coplanar at the toe, both front and back sides of the mouth, and the heel to work effectively.  Think about it. Certain Japanese planes are actually concave outside these areas.  The most, and overwhelmingly, important thing is the sharpness of the iron, and learning how to achieve true sharpness and then maintaining the edge, as I've said before, a plane is nothing more than a jig to hold an edge tool.  Personally, I don't attempt to flatten soles on vintage planes unless non-flatness is a contributing factor to how the plane performs; sometimes less is more.  I don't have a surface grinder so I lap them, very tedious, but effective.  It also depends on what type of wood you are working; gnarly grain that provokes tearout calls for different approaches.  But the typical domestic (US) hardwoods are not that problematic.  

All that being said, LN and LV produce excellent, top of the line planes, and if you can afford to stock your till with them you won't be disappointed; I have several from each and have never regretted the purchases. They are called "premium planes" for good reason, tighter tolerances, well made, and will outlast your lifetime.  It's also hard to find used ones from these makers, ebay buyers often from overseas bid almost full retail to avoid the value added tax applied in the EU; bench planes do show up in the S&S from time to time and like everything else posted for sale are reasonably priced and properly described by fudge that use planes and know what is important (and who point out apologies in condition), but if you're patient some will come up and you'd better be ready to pull the trigger on them quickly as they don't last long.  You're starting a long journey on a slippery slope with hand tools, enjoy it.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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