Posts: 22
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2009
I have a tool someone made for me.The tang from the handle end to the beginning of the cutting tool is 6" long.The width of this piece is 7/8". It is 3/8" thick. I thought about grinding an equal amount off of each side but dont want want to do this.I thought about taking 2 pieces of wood and routing a groove in each piece so that the tool would fit snugly in it but I think this would end up being a bigger handle than I want.Im scratching my head on this and dont have a whole lot of time to put in to this as my schedule is jam packed to say the least...Rather be using the tool...Thanks for any help !!!.
Posts: 2,339
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Irving, Tx
I had a similar, but smaller, challenge. I drilled, then turned the blank and secured the tool with epoxy.
Don't know if that helps, but it worked for me.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Square peg in round hole perfectly acceptable in woodworking. The tang is a BIG square nail. Turning tools have tapered tangs, so taper away, leaving as much section initially as you feel is necessary, say 1/2" if you're going to use it to pry. Allows you to taper the hole(s) by using larger and larger bits to lesser depths if you'd like. End up with that 3/8 or
skosh larger and set the tang in the hole. Drive it by hitting the end of the handle on your benchtop, and letting inertia drive it. don't hit the metal.
If it ever seems to be getting a bit loose, rap the end of the handle again, and it'll wedge and tighten.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestora...hisel.html
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 14,533
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: southeastern VA
Robo Hippy has a very good video on making a handle for a square tang tool by laminating 3 pieces of wood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HCjFdcfyaQ
Somethings to note:
- if you do put the tool in a pre-made handle with a round hole, break the corners on the tang first
- you do not need to put the whole tang in the handle. Depending on total length of the steel, 2-1/2" to 3" should be plenty.
- if the tool that your friend made for you is a skew, then break the long edges of the blade to make it move easier on the rest and to stop it cutting into a cast iron rest. The same concept applies to the long edges of scrapers that you are going to shear scrape with.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
Posts: 1,548
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2006
The tool description sounds like my larger Big Ugly tool. The video covers it pretty well, but for this one, if you don't cut or grind the sides down, you will need a 1 inch inside diameter or slightly larger ferrule. I did cut mine down with a jig saw and a metal blade, carbide tipped one. I don't have a metal cutting bandsaw. 5/8 inch wide is more than enough to support that tool.
robo hippy
Posts: 22
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2009
Ill get the grinder out and make it smaller.It will work out fine! Thanks!
Posts: 22,332
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Monrovia, AL
(09-04-2016, 03:29 PM)iclark Wrote: Robo Hippy has a very good video on making a handle for a square tang tool by laminating 3 pieces of wood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HCjFdcfyaQ
+1, this way you can make the opening to fit whatever rectangle/square you've got.
"73 is the best number because it's the 21st prime number, and it's mirror 37 is the 12th prime number, whose mirror 21 is the product of 7 times 3. Also in binary 73 is 1001001, which is a palindrome." - Nobel Laureate, Dr. Sheldon Cooper
