Finger Joint Adjustment
#10
I completed cutting some finger joints with my table saw today. They came out just a tad tight. They go together, but must be forced with a mallet or clamp pressure. Short of adjusting the set-up and re-cutting them (which would waste the pieces), what would you do to accurately and consistently narrow the pins just a whisker to get a snug fit. I have some thoughts, but I would like to know what others do.
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#11
Personally, I like my finger joints to be tight. If they'll set together with mallet blows, then I'm fine with it.

If you want to sand each a little, then you can take a thin piece of wood and wrap some sandpaper over the end and do some light sanding. I've bought a little extra room before by taking a wooden paint stirring stick, and gluing a piece of medium sandpaper to it. I also once stole my wife's emery board (she uses it for her nails, what a waste!) for the task.
" The founding fathers weren't trying to protect citizens' rights to have an interesting hobby." I Learn Each Day 1/18/13

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#12
(09-15-2016, 09:25 PM)Willyou Wrote: I completed cutting some finger joints with my table saw today. They came out just a tad tight. They go together, but must be forced with a  mallet or clamp pressure. Short of adjusting the set-up and re-cutting them (which would waste the pieces), what would you do to accurately and consistently  narrow the pins just a whisker to get a snug fit. I have some thoughts, but I would like to know what others do.

I do my adjustment on the test pieces, not the project pieces.  Bet you will, too, next time.

Make a shallow slope wooden wedge as big, with sandpaper adhered to the straight face, as you wish the gap to be, and draw it through. Sort of a sandpaper file.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#13
Exactly what Mike & Greg said.  To me that is a perfect initial cut - sand/file to fit snug.

Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#14
Quote:I do my adjustment on the test pieces, not the project pieces.  Bet you will, too, next time.
I certainly do test pieces and had it set up just right. However, something about the final cuts was just a whisker off (hasn't that ever happened to you?). So. Here I am. I'll get it fixed. I was just wondering what others do under the circumstances. Thanks for the suggestions.
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#15
(09-16-2016, 10:13 PM)Willyou Wrote: I certainly do test pieces and had it set up just right. However, something about the final cuts was just a whisker off (hasn't that ever happened to you?). So. Here I am. I'll get it fixed. I was just wondering what others do under the circumstances. Thanks for the suggestions.

I don't use a tablesaw jig for that reason. Always seemed too fussy. Now using the Router Workshop type jig.  Doesn't seem to happen.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#16
Quote:I don't use a tablesaw jig for that reason. Always seemed too fussy. Now using the Router Workshop type jig.  Doesn't seem to happen.

Yes. I would ordinarily do that as well. However, this time the fingers I was cutting were wider than any router bit I have or any of the jig fingers. So, I was relegated to the table saw and dado set or make a special jig for the router table.
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#17
Not finger joints, then.  If the gaps are wider than your router bit, use a router to shave them to fit.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#18
Quote:Not finger joints, then.

Please clarify. Are you suggesting that what I am cutting are not finger joints? What are they?

Quote:If the gaps are wider than your router bit, use a router to shave them to fit.

Please explain. I think some sort of jig would be required in order to accurately and consistently trim the proper amount. In my case, I've got 3/4" fingers with 3/4" gaps.
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