circular saw cutting guide
#11
So I sold off my small amount of tools and got out of woodworking about six years ago and now I'm slowly getting back into it as I've now got the time and more importantly the need to build more stuff around the house.  I started reading the Idea Shop 6 articles on the Wood magazine form.  My question is specifically to the circular saw cutting guide that is referenced here http://www.woodmagazine.com/idea-shop-6-...and-narrow

I'm looking at cutting up some sheet goods and never had a lot of experience using a circular saw before.  If using their method of placing the sheet good on the ground on top of a foam sheet for clearance and cutting 1/2" or 3/4" birch ply how worried should I be about kickback?  I've looked at some other methods including the EZSmart circular edge guide that has an anti kickback fin or spending a bit more money and buying a tracksaw which I may end up doing in the long term.

Just in the short term I'm looking at the safest way to makes these cuts to start making some cutting guides and the saw horses they have shown on the website so I can start building my woodworking skills up.
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#12
using a guide like the one you linked to is pretty safe.  Where you'll get in possible trouble is if you plunge cut and then try to cut backwards.  Plywood doesn't try to pinch the saw blade like solid wood sometimes can

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#13
If your back or knees are at all tender, I'd suggest making a grid support for the foam and setting the grid on saw horses. Makes it easy to unload sheets directly onto the cutting table.
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#14
I started with something like this kind.
Seems to me the adaptability is better, and it is a lot easier to get a 98" cut and handle much more easily.
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#15
after reading what you wrote I am unclear of what is most important to you so with that.  If safety is the main concern for large goods most places that sell them will cut them down for you.  As for myself when cutting down sheet goods in the wild I use just about anything to create a gap under the sheet 2x and even cardboard which I don't recommend.  That being said the depth of the blade is what I find to be most important sometimes I don't even cut completely through and finish up with a utility knife.  
uard 
Something important I want to point out is after you finish the cut tip the saw on its side and set it down do not swing it off to your side a guy I know just sliced a muscle in his leg after something got caught in the blade guard.  As he finished the cut pulled the saw towards himself guard stuck exposed blade hit his thigh and off the the hospital he went
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#16
When I cut sheet goods, I use a piece of shelving made out of Melanie purchased from a big box store. 12" wide by 10 feet long. Color is white if that makes any difference. 
Big Grin  It allows me to clamp the piece to the work and give me plenty of room for the saw.

I cut on top of two saw horses and a thick piece of foam insulation on top of 2x4's. Clamp the work to the foam allowing for the offset from the edge of the base to the blade. I also purchased some fine tooth blades for my saw. 

The only thing you can do for kick back is make sure you hold the saw straight to the cut. And also make sure there is enough support under the piece your cutting.
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#17
(09-20-2016, 12:48 PM)Tacknight Wrote: http://www.woodmagazine.com/idea-shop-6-...and-narrow


You will get kickback with any guide if you don't keep the saw moving straight ahead. It's when you get the blade all jaberwokied that it digs in, and wants to kick. The guide you show is awesome, easy to make, and use. There are a lot of other ideas to spend BIG $$$ on. The problem with making this is it requires a straight cut. A table saw can do that easily, and with the right blade give you a razor sharp, clean edge. With just your circular saw to cut with I would suggest spending a little money on a gizmo that can get your clean edges for your larger ripping shoe.

This guy right here See tips in the video below.





I didn't watch this one, but the say there is a video here, maybe different thoughts.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#18
I really appreciate all of the information everyone has provided. I think my plan this weekend is to build some sawhorses and I'll be hitting my local woodworking store to pick up one of the edge guides that has been suggested. I think throwing the plywood on a sheet of foam over the sawhorses is gonna save my back and knees and improve my safety by not kneeling over my work and the saw as I'm sawing away. I will be spending a couple nights researching edge guides.
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#19
You will need something more rigid than foam to keep the ply from bending. The simplest is to place four 2 x 4s across the 4 sawhorses and put the foam on that
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#20
I think the best bet is the guide in your first post
 http://www.woodmagazine.com/idea-shop-6-...and-narrow 
Lets you line the guide edge on your cut line, and make the cut. You don't have to allow for saw base width.
I made one for crosscutting 4x8 sheets.
ripping sheets is easier on the table saw, as long as you have a decent outfeed table.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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