Lawn People?????
#11
OK I decided I am going to try to revive the lawn this year. It has been a very dry summer and the lawn looks like a desert. Here is my idea. I feel I can water the lawn between rains which are few but being it is basically new grass I do not have to water deeply to get it started. Winter will take over and then the grass will go dormant till the spring but it will have a quick start from the fall seeding.

OK. I am raking the thatch and dry grass out of the lawn and almost done. Lots of bare spots. Here is what I want to do. I want to core aerate the lawn figuring this will give me the best chance to bring the lawn back. Here is what I have. Seed, top soil, and aerator. 

I figured I would seed entire lawn and then cover all bare spots with top soil. Then I will aerate the lawn and then lightly top seed again hoping the seed finds the holes and the cores will break down over time. My question is would this be the way to do this or should I aerate the lawn and then seed and then add top soil??? I am  afraid this will cancel the aerating because now I will fill the holes with top soil. Hope this makes sense.

Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
John T.
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#12
I have seeded after using an aerator but the last couple of years I've been renting a verti-slicer with a front end drop seeder.  The Verti-slicer proved to be much better in my experiences.  Cross hatch your yard changing directions if you really want to lay some seed.  I pro lawn friend of mine said aerating is great to do in the spring if your verti-slicing and seeding in the fall.


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#13
Grass seed will germinate when the ground temperatures are warm enough and moisture is adequate. Fall seeding after aeration is generally good because the seed has a chance of hitting soil. I don't believe adding top soil is as good as adding compost. In the fall, Northern cool season grass needs to build carbs through fertilization for early spring greenery. Fall fertilization now with a second application of Milorganite in a couple of weeks should help the existing turf grass out. If the ground stays warm and damp enough yet uncovered by falling tree leafs, you might have a chance of good seed germination. Otherwise the seed will over winter until the Spring. Whatever you do, do not use a winterizer weed & feed fertilizer as it will prevent germination.

If your location is a Southern warm season lawn any prior statements may be incorrect.
Any free advice given is worth double price paid.
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#14
I have seen on several occasions the Ohio State turf research experts say "a bad fall seeding is better than a good spring seeding", so I'd say you are getting the timing right.  I agree with Fireslayer's suggestion to rent a slit seeder.  That will also work as a thatcher.  Run it one direction then run it diagonal to that so you don't get corn rows or a checkerboard pattern.  I'd do that after core aeration as it will also help to break up the plugs.  When I did mine a couple of years ago (I was trying to improve the percentage of favorable turn types, not restart...) I also broadcast seed over the yard after that.

Water at least 3-4 times per week to get it going.  I bought a timer with 4 valves from HD.  It would turn on one, turn that one off, then the next...this gave enough water pressure at each sprinkler to get good coverage and I didn't need to move sprinklers 4 times a week - it was just taken care of.  I bought a couple of cheap hoses and sprinklers...I think I even had a few Y's at the end of one or two of the hoses.  I might have spent an extra $75,, but I figured that was protecting the investment in seed and equipment rental (and time!) that I had already made.
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#15
I'll also say the verti slicer is a better way to do it. I've done the core aerator and was really disappointed whith how the seed germinated, the slicer looks more like you sowed wheat and gives you more grass.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#16
(09-25-2016, 07:46 PM)JosephP Wrote: I have seen on several occasions the Ohio State turf research experts say "a bad fall seeding is better than a good spring seeding"

Water at least 3-4 times per week to get it going.  I bought a timer with 4 valves from HD.  It would turn on one, turn that one off, then the next...this gave enough water pressure at each sprinkler to get good coverage and I didn't need to move sprinklers 4 times a week - it was just taken care of.  I bought a couple of cheap hoses and sprinklers...I think I even had a few Y's at the end of one or two of the hoses.  I might have spent an extra $75,, but I figured that was protecting the investment in seed and equipment rental (and time!) that I had already made.

Yes, a fall seeding is best. Just make sure to get the grass to adulthood before the frost/snow. A fall seeding gets the grass two solid growing seasons before baking in the summer sun.

If you want really good germination, water 3-4 times a DAY. maybe 6-10min each depending on your sun exposure and temps. The key is to keep the soil moist at ALL times. If the seed or little grass plant ever dries up, its dead and never coming back.

The multiple hoses and a multi-hose timer is key. I think I set my timer for 630a, 1030a, 230p, 630p.  My timer only goes by intervals so I have to turn the spigot on before 630a and off before 1030p or it will run all night.
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#17
Thanks all for the replys. I went with the core aerator because it is one I am familiar with. I have used one twice before. The slicer is not powered and heavy to move and being the lawn is a bit hilly and uneven the aerator worked fine. I overseeded and put some top soil on top to keep from washing away and now I will water. By end of Oct i should have grass growing and will be ready for the spring. It does not get freezing here till late Nov. Thanks again.
John T.
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#18
Just to let everyone know and thank all that responded. After 5 days I am seeing grass starting to poke through. My lawn will be back in shape in no time. I was little hesitant but looks like it will come in before the winter and now in the spring it will really take off. Thanks again.
John T.
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#19
What kind of seed did you go with? Also, I saw someone recommend rinsing the seed off first, I forget which thread... Did you try that? I'm in a race to get mine going too.
Benny

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#20
(10-05-2016, 10:54 AM)bennybmn Wrote: What kind of seed did you go with? Also, I saw someone recommend rinsing the seed off first, I forget which thread... Did you try that? I'm in a race to get mine going too.

I always use Pennington's northeastern seed. I have tried Scotts 2 years in a row and could not get it to germinate. Wrote to Scotts and they refunded my money. Did not help with the lawn but at least got the money back. Pennington is great seed. No weeds and it started growing in 5 days. Like all seed today it is suppose to be water saver but is not coated like Scotts and I think that was the key. Never heard about washing seeds. I believe what really helped this year is me aerating the lawn. It opened the lawn again. Instead of having seeds just lay on the surface. I ran that aerator at least 5 times in all directions on the lawn so really opened it up. Glad I did that part. Good luck with your lawn.
John T.
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