Veritas Small Plow as a beader

[Derek Cohen]

Some months ago, Lee Valley released an upgrade for the Veritas Small Plow that included an improved depth stop and a modification to use the plow as a beading plane. 

The modification involved the factory machining a bevel on the skate. I presume that this is to enable the skate to follow inside the path of the narrow land of the bead.



The update to the depth stop provides a reliable grip to its shaft. The original depth stop was apt to slip. Roughing the surface of the shaft helped. My response was to add a slot for a screwdriver, and tighten it up. As seen below, my knob still has the slot. Both plow bodies have the new depth stop ...



Lee Valley offered a inexpensive and fairly painless process for those wanting to upgrade their Plows - simply send the basic shell to the factory, and they would machine and return it. Out in the Antipodes, and other non-American lands, this process was not available as the higher shipping costs were a factor. Quite recently, Lee Valley came up with a solution for us, whereby they would simply send out a new, machined body shell to reduce shipping costs both ways. 

I was undecided whether I would have the modification done. First of all, I prefer planes that do one thing and one thing well, rather than Swiss Army Knives. I already had a Stanley #45, and rarely use it (it is more interesting to look at). Besides, I have used the beading blades on the #45, and they are only successful on straight grained woods, preferably of the softer type. 

Beading with the #45 on quarter grain Tasmanian Oak ..



The interlocked grain on the typical Australian hardwoods I work with are really unsuited to a plough-turned-beader. Then there was the set of beading planes I have recently restored for use - another reason why the Small Plow mod was not a good idea. At least they have a closed mouth to hold down the wood.

Most of all, I use scratch stocks and make my own cutters. And another old photo ..



However, I was curious, and so I sent off for the new, ubeaut, updated Small Plow, and ordered the beading blades (which are PM-V11 steel).

Plus, I had a cunning idea, a plan to make the Small Plow beader bead like no other beader could bead! Let me tell you about this ...



Step one was to test out the Plow on a scrap of Makore (left over from a recent build). I was interested to see what type of finish I could get using a slightly interlocked grain but one with grain that was mainly predictable. 

Pop in a newly-sharpened 3/16" blade (they come 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4"). This is no different to set up than a standard plough blade. Planing with the grain, the finish was crisp and free of defects ..

---

Now I turned the board around and planed against the grain. The result was massive tearout, as expected ..



OK, so here is the plan: I would use a Stanley #45 beading blade of the same size as the guinea pig. This is identical in thickness to the Veritas blade, just longer. The extra length means that I cannot use the adjuster, and will need to set the depth of cut by hand. What will be different about this blade is that it will receive a 15 degree backbevel. That will create a 60 degree cutting angle! A high cutting angle of this magnitude no longer requires a mouth to control tearout.

Stanley on the left with the backbevel ...



So here we are planing into the grain with the Plow plus backbevelled blade ...



And the finish is pretty good! (alongside the bead you will see the tearout in the board that came from flattening it with a jack plane) ..





After satisfying myself that the backbevel was a Good Idea, the Veritas blade went the same route. This time I planed both ways ... both with- and against the grain. 

The result was outstanding. It is difficult to tell which is which ...



In summing up, based on my small experiment, I think that the modification to the Small Plow looks like it will be worth the time and small cost ... if one also uses the blades with a backbevel. Of course, this advice extends to the #45 as well. The nice thing about this mod is that it is now really just a couple of extra blades. There is nothing to set up. I like it. Try it for yourself.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[MichaelMouse]

Looking good.  I reduced my depth of cut to nearly nil going into rising grain, and don't think my results were as good as the back-bevel.

How much extra drag does it add, and do you think it slows you down?  IOW, keep a normal and add a back, or go back only?

[Derek Cohen]

No noticeable extra effort needed. You still need to take light cuts, as is usual.

I used the Veritas small blade guide to add the 15 degree backbevel. The main bevel remains as original (35 degree bevel).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Brady]

Considering the cost of the modification and the cutters, I didn't have my plow plane modified for this limited function (beading; straight edges only; with the grain only).  I prefer a scratch stock or #66 style beading tool.  I'll be waiting to invest in a more robust plow plane when it is available.

[barryvabeach]

Derek,  I am a bit confused.  You back beveled the "spurs" but not the beading part of the plane, correct?  So was the tearout before you back beveled just where the spurs were, or did it include the beading part?   I would have thought that the rounded part would be the part that needed to be scraped -  which is where the back bevel would have come in handy, though it would be difficult to back bevel and maintain the geometry.

[Handplanesandmore]

Thank you.

Got to try this. The super light cuts approach was time-consuming for me in the few projects.

LV has extended the upgrade/conversion (till this month?) and those who are still sitting on the fence have one last chance, but time is running out. For my work, I can't foresee how a larger plow would help me significantly and so I had my plow modified as soon as the conversion program came out.

Simon

[Derek Cohen]

Derek,  I am a bit confused.  You back beveled the "spurs" but not the beading part of the plane, correct?  So was the tearout before you back beveled just where the spurs were, or did it include the beading part?   I would have thought that the rounded part would be the part that needed to be scraped -  which is where the back bevel would have come in handy, though it would be difficult to back bevel and maintain the geometry.

Hi Barry

The "beading part" does not cut. The sides of the hollow cut. The main tear out comes from the "spurs" (I refer to them as "lands" - not sure what the correct term is). Set the depth stop to end the cut when the hollow just clears the cut bead. The high cutting angle on the lands prevents/reduces tearout.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[barryvabeach]

Thanks,  I may make a spare blade for my Stanley 45 and try it out.

[blackhat]

How far did you extend the back bevel? Half the profile depth? A 1/16" or just a touch?

[Derek Cohen]

Have a look at the photo above. You can make out the backbevel. It is micro. That's all that is needed.

Regards from Perth

Derek