Well boys, I'm in it now. Bathroom remodel steps?
#31
Having experience trying to remove texture/wall paper to save the sheet rock, my experience has been the sheet rock is going to be so badly damaged/compromised and then have to be replaced, it is money/time ahead to just replace the sheet rock in the first place. Especially in a wet environment like a bathroom.
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#32
I'm with Bob 10.
I just did two bathrooms. Re-sheetrocked the big one but saved the sheetrock on the little one. It would have gone faster if I just re-sheetrocked. Projects always look new when starting from scratch. I also don't save any molding. I by pre-primed and paint it before installing. Fill the nail holes, sand flush and repaint. It may cost a bit more but it eliminates all the little crap that makes a job take forever.... I typically don't re-sheetrock ceilings.
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#33
1/4" thick birch ply beadboard is sold at the BORG in 4 x 8' sheets. It's paint or stain grade. They will discount heavily for pieces with edge damage if you ask and they nearly all have edge damage. Just throwing out ideas if you decide to not take out the drywall. You could add crown at the top and maybe a little built in jewelry box somewhere in between
Smile. You could run it floor to ceiling. Sorry, couldn't resist the jewelry box joke...


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#34
Not sure what type styling your wife wants but you may do yourself a lot of good looking at CL for what you need.  My needs are probably different as I redo rentals and the end user doesn't know if it went in brand new or been there a while.  So I look for lightly used quality products and with the finished product in mind.  I picked up this stuff today to finish a bath that needed better lighting 2 of these lights will be replacing the same dated lighting at another house then the one shown at the bottom.  The sinks, faucets and towel bar in the bottom pic were picked up of CL free section too
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/hsd/5811827309.html

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#35
First, demo.  After that, you're on your own!
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#36
The current texture look like it was done with drywall mud.  It was very poorly done, uneven and generally sloppy.  What I want to put on is 'anything that can be done with a roller and no skill'.

That's an interesting idea...
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#37
A little late to the party, but rip out the drywall if you have to retexture it all anyway. I wasn't planning to when I remodeled the guest bath/master bath into a large master. I ended up going back to studs after discovering no insulation behind the shower on an outside wall in the master. Pulling down the drywall I found no insulation on that wall. the house was built in 1978. I also found issues with a plumbing vent. One wall also backed up to the kitchen, and I found a junction box buried in the wall where someone had moved an outlet over and just left a box in the wall.
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#38
Update:  I went home last with the logic that if'n I was going to bust out the drywall, I might as well use the existing wall to practice and to test out new textures.

I sanded more or less flat a 1' by 2' area, and made a 2'x2' grid (half unsanded/half sanded) and did some stuff.  In what was a very pleasant surprise, my wife decided what she likes best is a VERY thin layer of mud scraped hard over the existing texture.  Her second choice was a very slightly thicker mud spread run over with a texturing roller.  Her "no I don't like that" was the old texture sanded off and a new texture sprayed on (mainly cause I suck at texturing).  Nor did she like what I thought she would choose, which was a thick layer of mud hand troweled on and old-world plastery looking.

So...next question.  Do you Kilz first and then mud, or mud first then Kilz?
MAKE: Void your warranty, violate a user agreement, fry a circuit, blow a fuse, poke an eye out...  www.makezine.com

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#39
I would sand, mud, and then use a PVA primer.
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#40
Perfect, I'll do it that way!
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