Kitchen island - cabinet layout

[MKepke]

SWMBO wants to expand the countertop space in the kitchen, mostly to use for baking.

We have fairly large neo-angle island in the kitchen now with the typical 50:50 split of conventional cabinets and a raised upper seating area, like this pic:



To limit the $expense, I have convinced SWMBO not to move or replace the island (which contains plumbing, HVAC and electrical) but instead to tear-out the upper seating area, install additional cabinets in-place of the upper seating area and run countertop over the whole thing.

But I can't wrap my mind around what cabinet layout to use for infilling what was the upper seating area - given that the neo-angle design will result in the face-frames of the added cabinets meeting at 225 degrees.  With a standard 24" depth cabinet, the 225 degree gap between standard square cabinet carcasses is much too wide to cover with filler strips - they'd be enormous.  Like 15" wide edge-to-edge.

I'd prefer to use off-the-shelf cabinets e.g. Conestoga but if there's a 225 degree cabinet - I'm not seeing it.  I'm not opposed to making a custom cabinet or two to infill the space but I have no good ideas for the space, design-wise.  For example, I thought about putting in a recessed wide filler-strip and sticking a leg/pillar in front of that - just to fill up the dead space and provide some visual interest.

Anybody done this before?

-Mark

[Bob10]

Tossed everything I wrote after rereading this. Order the doors to match and make the face frame and box make the doors oversized as you can't really use drawers on the thing

[JGrout]

The "fillers" are the doors adjacent  to the center 

In fact the entire sink unit is one piece 

the color difference is due to my cheap camera they all match the front quite nicely

[MKepke]

Joe - using doors as fillers is a good idea.  Thx

Also occurred to me I could fill the 225 angle with shelves.  Just need to infill the space between two cabinet carcasses with a back, toe kick, etc.  The carcass gables can give me a readymade mostly finished interior for the shelves.

-Mark

[JGrout]

I drilled the back of the stiles and the carcass for shelving (we put in in after the plumber was done and I did not take a pic of it)

I used the locking shelf pins (screw hole in the bottom) so I could secure the shelf after it was installed 

The HO likes it that way they are secure and still adjustable if the need arises 


Joe