double compound miter - crown molding
#11
A friend has a vaulted ceiling that they want my help installing crown molding.
The issue is how to miter the crown molding that comes down at an angle (from the vaulted wall) to the adjoining wall.
So the walls are at 90 to each other, but not to the ceiling (as measured perpendicular from the floor).


I've done crown molding before, but only where the ceiling is all in one plane and where everything is at 90 degrees.
I'm up for the challenge, but not sure how to do this.


How do I make that miter at the corner?
How do I mate the crown to the vaulted ceiling? (where the ceiling meets the wall as on the roof meets the eave of a house)

Thanks in advance for your advice and shared experience.

Ray
Ray
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#12
Makes for an interesting project. I was curious about the geometry so I found a crown profile and doodled a bit. To get the pieces to meet up correctly, you'd need to cut a little piece as in the center, here. It would look something like this from the end of the horizontal run. It creates an interesting problem because the top of the crown is intended to meet a horizontal surface. I think you'd either need to bevel off a bit of the crown (tan) or add some pieces above the molding with the one along the horizontal run beveled.

It'll be interesting to see what a pro comes up with. We've been considering doing a similar thing.
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#13
I did this to our bedroom a few months ago.

"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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#14
That's cool and pretty slick!
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#15
Thats fine for a painted molding on a 2/12 pitch vault where you can caulk the gap created by tipping the crown.  Try that  on a 4 12 and you'll be looking at a big gap on the bottom of the crown along the non vaulted walls.
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#16
I agree you wouldn't want to do it on anything but painted.  My roof was probably 4/12 and it was fine.
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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#17
Collins Coping Foot and never look back. Takes the frustration away at least when I did crown it did for me, freaky fits were easy. I still have a Bosch jig saw with it on and blades, never use it anymore guess I should put It on S & S.
Jim

THANK OUR MILITARY THAT WE ARE FREE

If I accepted, that'd mean I didn't have any integrity..
AND then I'd meet your expectations as a politician..
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#18
Meant to login in sooner, but was having connection issues.
Anywho - so the crown is just twisted to fit? Slick idea, but isn't that noticeable even after caulk and paint?

Ray
Ray
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#19
That coping foot looks like a great tool to have, but I'm not doing nearly enough to even come close to justify the purchase of a new tool.
I will only have 4-5 cuts (and it will be a long time before the next time I'll be doing any crown). My hand held coping saw will be sufficient.

Ray
Ray
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#20
I still prefer the look you get with the 3 pieces of crown, over the single slab. The contractor was obviously looking at low cost, and probably charged close to what doing it complete would cost in both time and material. My money says if it's a home job, or your helping a friend, at least offer both looks. If you have help holding it up, it really isn't much more work.



[Image: crown-molding-richmond-va-345x261.png]



[Image: good-crown-molding-model-buildup.jpg]


Plus in the video the guy was toenailing drywall, after a few years you will get gaps simply from the weight of the stock. Doing the 3 piece you can nail the runners into the studs, and are nailing the crown into the secured runners, ain't going anywhere. It's just a matter of doing it like they used to, or like the speed merchants do now. The Bondo boys..........
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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