Sawstop capacitor
#15
  Re: RE: Sawstop capacitor by Carpenter Mark (Despite all the wond...)
(11-10-2016, 07:36 PM)Carpenter Mark Wrote: Despite all the wonderful features and US engineering, it is still a Chiwanese saw and the motor itself might be bad. I have some machines that are quite heavily used with older US & Euro motors that have given me no troubles for years, but I have also burned up three chinese motors in the past 4-5 . You should look into a motor upgrade.



         Good point. I have had brand new machines with import motors that would start up just fine but after less than a minute would start to slow to a dead stop. 

             And I assume the centrifugal switch is clicking back and forth properly
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#16
  Re: RE: Sawstop capacitor by Carpenter Mark (Despite all the wond...)
Thank you for all the replies. I did get one from SS cause I went to a few places and they didn't have any. Well, got the capacitor with the directions from SS that state it's the blister on the bottom of the motor for the starter. I opened that one up and it's different...color and specs. So I opened the other one just to check and it'd the same one! Both hard wired to the motor. They are both grey and the one they sent is blue with screw connectors. Calling them today as soon as they open. GRRR

Michael
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#17
  Re: RE: Sawstop capacitor by grey spider (Thank you for all th...)
(11-11-2016, 08:36 AM)grey spider Wrote: Thank you for all the replies. I did get one from SS cause I went to a few places and they didn't have any. Well, got the capacitor with the directions from SS that state it's the blister on the bottom of the motor for the starter. I opened that one up and it's different...color and specs. So I opened the other one just to check and it'd the same one! Both hard wired to the motor. They are both grey and the one they sent is blue with screw connectors. Calling them today as soon as they open. GRRR

Michael

Your motor is capacitor-start, capacitor-run, which is very common when single-phase motors get to 3 hp and virtually universal at 5 hp and up.  The run capacitor works similar to the start capacitor but stays in the circuit all the time.  The start capacitor (only) is removed once the motor approaches full speed, but they both work together (wired in parallel) while it's starting.  They both operate in the 'start' winding only, but that winding doesn't get cut out when the motor is at speed - only the start capacitor is cut out, and the run capacitor stays in the circuit, with the start winding working as another run winding, but a little out of phase with the main winding(s).  Sort of like a Harley vee-twin.  It's a kind of two-phase motor, with the second electrical phase created by the capacitor(s) which delay the current in time a little relative to the main windings.

The upshot being, the requirements for the start and run winding are different, and the capacitors are normally different both in capacitance value and construction.  It's odd that both of yours are the same, and apparently SS thinks so, too.

Oh, the start capacitor would be marked showing triple digit capacitance (like 200 mfd), and the run capacitor in the double digits (like 20 mfd). More or less, but usually an order of magnitude different. As I said, usually very different, for very different purposes.
Tom

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#18
  Re: Sawstop capacitor by grey spider (I have a industrial ...)
I use these capacitors. They cost more, but worth it.

http://www.americanradionic.com/
"There are no strangers- only friends I haven't met.
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