Router to machine aluminum?
#11
Question 
Can I put an end mill bit in a router to machine aluminum? I would be taking very lite passes.

My boss is a Jewish carpenter. Our DADDY owns the business.
Trying to understand some people is like trying to pick up the clean end of a turd.
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#12
Sure an end mill is made to cut up mild steel on a regular basis, aluminum would be a light lunch. I wouldn't use my favorite router though, the small chips could make a long life of the router a lot shorter, and I'd dress head to toe in something that would easily deflect metal chips, especially my eyes, face, and head. I would also suggest a very rigid guide to keep the bit on track.

What are you going to do?
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#13
I do in my CNC with the correct bit and WD40. I use an Onsurd 63-620 O-flute bit with lots of WD-40.


https://www.amazon.com/LMT-Onsrud-63-620...urd+63-620

LMT Onsrud 63-620 Solid Carbide Upocut Spiral O Flute Cutting TOOL, Inch, Uncoated (Bright) Finish, 22 Degree Helix, 1 Flute, 2.0000" Overall Length, 0.2500" Cutting Diameter, 0.2500" Shank Diameter


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#14
I'm thinking of making a replacement lid for an oval crock-pot. The original was glass. It needs to be shipped to Africa and I question if a glass replacement would survive the trip.

My boss is a Jewish carpenter. Our DADDY owns the business.
Trying to understand some people is like trying to pick up the clean end of a turd.
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#15
Not sure that aluminum would work like you want.
It would expand quite a bit under high heat. It might also keep the food prepared from getting to and maintaining the correct temperature. It will shed the heat from inside to outside. Not desirable for a crock pot.
You can build a wooden crate and pad it well to help a glass top survive the trip.
Lee
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#16
Not a problem to rout aluminum.
Not necessarily cutter dependent. Nor does it require a lube.
Rather, it is highly technique sensitive. Would not try without
priors nor without someone who's done it.
Way too many surprises.
Something I do every day.
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#17
Would re-iterate the need for an absolutely solid and stable fence.  I have routed aluminum and 360 brass in the past.  It is certainly doable.  Metals are WAY more "grabby" than wood.  A veritable speed router and very controlled cuts are a must... otherwise you're setting yourself up for a wicked kick-back... ask me how I know.
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#18
Tell me the size of the bit and I will ask our machinist what depth and feed rate and spindle speed you should use.  A carbide bit will cut aluminum.  But the variables must be selected appropriately.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#19
I would use a 4 flute bit and the speed of the bit would be calculated by the surface of the bit in FPM.
A typical speed for a 3/8" bit for aluminum would be 2,500- 3,500 rpm or go 200 to 400 fpm- outside- 600 fpm; According to my charts.

No oil is need for self lubing aluminum- oil will make a mess.

Clean the bit often.

The bit WILL grab seriously, so make sure you have a rock steady cut that won't wander into the cut at all! Try a conventional cut instead of a climbing cut that may try and get away from you.
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#20
You would need to know the router speed or get a best guess. Most are between 18 and 24 thousand RPM. Really too fast for a standard end mill. 4 flutes is too many. It will clog up instantly without coolant. 
The O flute bits are probably your best bet. Light passes only if it is hand held or in a circle jig. The grade of aluminum matters a lot as well. 6061 is my go to material unless I need something tougher. Then I use 7075.
Many grades of aluminum will not machine well and be very gummy. Avoid those. 5052 and 6063 are two bad choices. Of the grades below those, I would just pass on them.
Lee
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