Turning Green

[BaileyNo5]

Harvested a little green birch this weekend and decided I wanted to turn an entire bowl green and let it warp as it dried.  It appears I have a few things to learn about this process, so thought I would see if you guys had any tips.

First, I turned the outside and tried to sand it.  That really didn't work at all.  Any tips on how to get a good finish on a green wood surface?  Should I let it dry a day or two?  I figure if I let it dry completely, I'll have to hand sand it due to warp.  

Second, I turned the inside.  Holy cow, that thing warps fast.  How do you deal with the warp and get a decent surface inside?

I was planning for a popcorn bowl, but Mr. Bark Inclusion had other plans.  Here's a few pics.  I know, the background hurts your eyes, but it was the only open area in the shop.

[Steve K]

You're asking questions that hundreds of books and a myriad of DVD's have been created to answer.  Find a club or a mentor. Next to that check out some Richard Raffin books or DVD's. There are some good authors and examples on you tube but it may not be a good place to start to for a complete newbie.

[BaileyNo5]

Thanks for the reply Steve.  I took a class from Raffan several years ago, and we turned a green bowl.  But we didn't have any issues with sanding, so maybe the wood was not as wet as this birch.  I also have several of his books.  At any rate, I'm looking for input from experienced green turners here.

[MichaelMouse]

Time was, all treen was turned green, which meant it was going to change shape for sure as it cured.  Some people, like Robo Hippy still turn warp and go as a matter of course.  The first thing you want to do is master your tools so you leave smooth surfaces behind.  I cut mine, some cut and scrape -gently- to get what they want.  I sand ridging, if any, with open-coat stearated paper, which is least likely to load up, but I do it after ejecting water with compressed air and centrifugal force.  I can see water in the endgrain of your bowl which would respond to either. 

Cut the whole thing in one session to ease your problems, and don't obsess over the exterior until the interior is complete.  Most of the time it will require no help being smooth enough to touch up when the piece is dry.  http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...eRound.jpg

I do most of my warp work with interrupted edges, unless you count the roughs which will be re-turned.  

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...ark-up.jpg

After the surface dries, you can run what it takes to get it where you like.  I usually do a 220 and a 320, which I am able to do with the piece dismounted.  I note you have left provision for remounting.  If you have a modest rpm setting you can remount to sand, but there seems little advantage. If you're still showing white heel marks, wet thoroughly and allow to dry after the interior has cured.