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I've had a lathe sitting in pieces in a back corner of my shop, and it's time to get it out and start turning. (After I build a stand for it this week, of course.) The only thing I'm missing is the expensive part--gouges.
I know more or less what I want: roughing gouge, spindle gouge, parting tool, skew, and maybe a bowl gouge. I'm open to a set, but I'm just as happy to get them individually.
I've seen a bunch of "intro-level" tools online: the Economy tools at Lee Valley, the Bodger tools at Highland, PSI sets (on Amazon), and a few others. I'd like to keep my initial buy-in under $200. I also have no problem mixing matching--spending a little more for essential tools and economizing on less critical ones.
Are any of these an especially good value--and are there any to stay away from?
Steve S.
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The Lee Valley or any other economy tools would be fine,especially when learning to sharpen. Once you have mastered sharpening,buy better tools. Your list is about what you would need.
Mel
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I sold a set of Sorby tools on ebay for less than that. Might take a look
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The Benjamin Best set from PSI are outstanding. I've been using them for years, and I know several pro and accomplished turners who still use them.
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That is a reasonable starter ist of tools.
On the skew, skip the oval ones and get a rectangular cross-section one. Lightly break the long edges on the toe (long point) side and round over the long edges on the heel side.
I have been very happy with the 1/16" Sorby parting tool. I works better for me than the diamond cross-section ones.
I would add a scraper to your list (probably a square end one) and then grind it to a drop nose configuration.
The other thing that is really helpful is a good tool rest. The Robust ones are excellent. For me, the low-profile ones are more comfortable.
The Best Buy brand is decent quality. You can also occasionally find Sorby on a good sale.
The One Way Wolverine sharpening fixtures are pretty much the standard. Skip the skew attachment. Yu wil not need it.
Once you develop your sharpening skills there are several very good too makers. My favorite is Doug Thompson. Great tools from a great guy.
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An absolutely essential part of turning is sharpening. A slow speed grinder, a CBN wheel and Wolverine gigs will get you there.
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Voice in the wilderness here.
What are you planning to make, spindles ore bowls? Totally different world IMHO. I do not do bowls, just spindles for various furniture projects. That is, no end grain turning. I have a slow speed grinder from Grizzly that works for me to sharpen my tools. Very important skill. I have the Windsor Design set from HF, purple handles. You can practice your sharpening skills on these without fear of damaging expensive tools.
I use scrap from other projects to practice various techniques. Lots of videos out there showing how to do things. Like I use the skew to round square stock - as practice. Roughing gouges are easier to use but on you can practice on scrap until you are confident. I typically run at lower speed than my highly skilled turning friends because I am more comfortable there. I try to use the skew as much as possible because it is the toughest to master. You will get catches but on scrap, it is a learning experience. I have one friend who is so afraid of catches he will not use a skew. At lower speeds it is not so frightening.
This is a very slippery slope you are on. For my highly skilled turning friends, the lathe is the cheapest thing they bought. The chucks, tools, grinders (diamond wheels) add up to a lot more. And they have expensive lathes......
Good luck.
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Go with the benjammin's best or another relatively cheap set and use the rest of the money for a decent sharpening jig.
Most of beginner woodturning is really tool sharpening - meaning feeding tool steel to the Grinder god.
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This seems a good deal to me. http://www.rockler.com/turning-tool-set Similar to the set of carbon steel tools I got with Ol' Blue thirty + years ago. Still use them, though replacements in HSS do most work but the finishing cuts now. I modified the pointed scraper to a beading tool (straight chisel) because it's more useful and friendlier to cut beads with than the skew.
If you're buying singles, I would recommend a roughing gouge in the 1 1/4 area. Gives you more edge when using it than the smaller ones, an asset if you're like me and leave the sandy bark on part of a rough to grind the sharp off. I also prefer a one inch straight chisel for planing on spindle work, and the thin parting tools are nice.
You may use the tool contoured as provided, seeking the best presentation, or you may choose to regrind to a configuration you're more familiar with. As a beginner, that probably means very little initial modification. With HCS you may hone rather than grind, in a ratio of say 5:1, or more if you set up a jig and use it as I see most people doing. They're taking a 100 grit three or four times across an edge they could have honed with three strokes of 320 in less time. At the lathe! The wood will let you know how it wishes to be cut, and when it wants you to sharpen. Feel the wood and pay attention to tactile and visual cues.
In HSS, the first tools you should acquire are those used for scraping (or parting), because careless use can overheat them.
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I have not used the brands that you mentioned.
In the economy line I purchased a group from Hurricane for my daughter and they seem to hold an edge as well as my Sorbys, Hamlets, and Crowns.
If you are doing fine spindle work one that I really like is Doug Thompsons 3/8" detail spindle gouge.
Since you have a shop already I am going to assume you have a grinder. Yes and 8" slow speed is nice but I have a standard 6" and have no problem getting things sharp or overheating the steel. Capn Eddid (youtube) has a video on making a jig for your gouges very cheaply. I agree with Michael that some tools are easier and faster to hone such as the skew or a parting tool, even if they are HSS.
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