Planer smoking
#10
Question 
I'm in need of a little electrical help. I have a Grizzly G0453 15" planer that started acting funny. It would be running fine until the motor would bog down like it was under heavy load, even when not running any wood through. Then all of a sudden heavy smoke billowed from the bottom of the cabinet. I took the cover off the capacitor box to see if it was them but it was coming from behind the box (out of the motor). Now when I try to start it, it trips the overload switch on the mag switch. I tested both capacitors and they both tested ok but for $20 I replaced them anyway, and it still trips the overload switch (It does turn a few revs before the switch pops). Is there anyway to test the mag switch or do you think the motor is shot? Is the motor even worth repairing or am I better off replacing with a Leeson or Baldor? replacing? I reall don't have any idea what it costs to repair a motor. A new motor is ~400-500 bucks.

I would appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks!
Not affraid to make mistakes just affraid I can't fix 'em
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#11
the motor needs to be tested; the starter protection box is doing the job it was intended to do 

there are a couple of guys here that can tell you how test your motor 

If it were me I would pull it and go to a motor repair shop for an answer 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#12
(12-02-2016, 10:08 AM)JGrout Wrote: the motor needs to be tested; the starter protection box is doing the job it was intended to do 

there are a couple of guys here that can tell you how test your motor 

If it were me I would pull it and go to a motor repair shop for an answer 

Joe


Thanks , that's what I figured. I have a motor about 5 miles away. I might as well just get it over with.
Big Grin
Not affraid to make mistakes just affraid I can't fix 'em
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#13
My 453Z starting popping caps a little less than 2 years into it.  Discover ended up footing the bill for a new motor because they double the warranty.  I went with the H5388.  That was about 6 years ago without any issues.
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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#14
Sounds like the motor is fried.  Motor shops aren't likely to want to rebuild it, either, as it's too small to be cost effective.

Be careful when shopping for a replacement, if that's the way you go.  The capacitor box on your motor looks like it's on the left side (looking at the end opposite the shaft), which is not a common location.  Baldor likes to put them on top, as does Leeson, but it may be on the right side, depending on brand, as well as the junction box.  Just something to be aware of, as there may not be room on the right side in the enclosure.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#15
(12-02-2016, 04:29 PM)TDKPE Wrote: Sounds like the motor is fried.  Motor shops aren't likely to want to rebuild it, either, as it's too small to be cost effective.

Be careful when shopping for a replacement, if that's the way you go.  The capacitor box on your motor looks like it's on the left side (looking at the end opposite the shaft), which is not a common location.  Baldor likes to put them on top, as does Leeson, but it may be on the right side, depending on brand, as well as the junction box.  Just something to be aware of, as there may not be room on the right side in the enclosure.

Thanks! Yeah it's a Chinese motor. There is plenty room on the other side of the cabinet for the box. Any recommendations if I need to go that route?
Not affraid to make mistakes just affraid I can't fix 'em
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#16
You may have fried the field coils.


Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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#17
That planer has a read this first section now Not sure if yours also came with this and had the "new" motor, but it would appear they changed the motor based on this manual. Might be worth it to call Griz to make sure there wasn't a recall? Won't cost more than the time to do it.

This article covers a bit about electrical motors found in woodworking equipment.

Leeson, Baldor, and AO Smith used to be the brands to look at, but with so much going to China, they could be junk now. If you have a local motor place, call and ask a recommendation. I've always bought motors locally because S&H also killed any deals, but that may have changed too, what with Amazooo, and free S&H becoming more the norm.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#18
(12-02-2016, 04:48 PM)snipit Wrote: Thanks! Yeah it's a Chinese motor. There is plenty room on the other side of the cabinet for the box. Any recommendations if I need to go that route?

Standard junction box location is on the right side (F1 in the specs, F2 means it's on the left side), but it sounds like that's not a problem.  If you source a new one, make sure the frame size is the same, and watch out for a "Z" suffix on the frame size, which means the shaft is non-standard; could still be acceptable (a threaded hole in the end would warrant the 'Z'), so verify critical dimensions like diameter, length, keyway dims, and location of the shoulder to the first set of holes in the feet (it's a footed motor, not a C-face). Frame size dictates distance from mounting foot plane to center of shaft, and foot hole pattern and size, and shaft location to the foot hole pattern, so matching frame size is important.  As well as speed - I'm sure that's a 2-pole motor, which would show a synchronous speed of 3600 rpm at 60Hz (when searching for motors on manufacturer's web sites).  Speaking of which, look for 230V, single-phase, 60Hz rating.  And TEFC - NOT ventilated (no open frame of any kind).

We (at work) don't do anything with Chinese motors, as we usually use WEG and Louis Allis motors, in the hundreds of HP.  But small Baldor, Leeson, and Marathon motors, AFAIK, are now made in China under direct supervision of the parent company, and should still be well made motors.  

But having said that, most people seem to be getting good service from the motors that came with their Grizzly machines.  It's possible the overload protection wasn't set correctly from the factory, or was changed later (those little controls have a variable setting), and being that it's easy to overload a planer or sander motor, that setting would be very critical for motor longevity.  

Consider adding a cheap ammeter to monitor the motor current when using the machine in the future.

Maybe even consider upping the power from the present 3 hp to 5 hp, with a change in the motor control.  If you're routinely working beyond the 3 hp rating (induction motors can be worked much harder than the nameplate 'continuous' output rating), you would be better served with a larger motor so you're not overloading it.  Something to think about, at least.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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