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12-02-2016, 10:10 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-02-2016, 10:12 AM by Timberwolf.)
I just finished the latest addition to my fleet of carving knives...I think it's about time that the woodcarving knives themselves represent the craft.....If you like carving, why not make your own tools and do so in your own style??...This one is made from a small Myrtle branch I pruned from a shrub in my yard...It's a hard wood but easily carved, especially when it is green and freshly cut...I made the oval ferrule out of brass tubing and the blade out of a Milwaukee metal cutting {Bi-Metal} blade, This is a very hard and very tough steel. I used a belt grinder, a bench grinder and a hi-speed leather wheel to produce an incredibly sharp and highly polished blade..If reasonable care is used, you will not get the steel hard enough to lose the temper.
I love sharpening and making knives and have been doing so for more than fifty years. It has been an obsession of mine....and well as woodcarving when the mood strikes me, and in this case, I was able to satisfy both crafts..
 ...And if I can answer any questions, I will be glad to help you any way I can.
![[Image: P1030104.jpg]](http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/timberwolf1/P1030104.jpg)
![[Image: P1030105_1.jpg]](http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a150/timberwolf1/P1030105_1.jpg)
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Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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That looks good!
I do have a question though. I had perhaps wrongly assumed that bimetal blades had the harder metal welded on to become only the teeth, and the bulk of the blade was tough, but less good as a cutting edge. I thought that such blades were less appropriate to be converted to knives than ones whose cutting edges were the bulk steel. Apparently I'm either wrong, or the steel is still good enough, or you have designed the blade to include the better steel at the edge. I have some old sawsall blades I was planning on using for knives anyway; it would be delightful to learn it's not such a compromise.
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(12-02-2016, 10:37 AM)Alan S Wrote: That looks good!
I do have a question though. I had perhaps wrongly assumed that bimetal blades had the harder metal welded on to become only the teeth, and the bulk of the blade was tough, but less good as a cutting edge. I thought that such blades were less appropriate to be converted to knives than ones whose cutting edges were the bulk steel. Apparently I'm either wrong, or the steel is still good enough, or you have designed the blade to include the better steel at the edge. I have some old sawsall blades I was planning on using for knives anyway; it would be delightful to learn it's not such a compromise. .................................
That may be true with blades from other makers, Alan, but I checked the top edge of the steel before deciding to use it for a knife blade..This Milwaukee blade is extremely hard and a file just "skates" over the entire blade.So I estimate it must be 60Rc or harder..I would recommend to anyone planning to use a saw blade, to check it first before putting any time into it. It may have a hard edge and a softer back...I have had these Milwaukee blades for maybe ten years and they are new, unused...I don't know about the newer ones being sold today.
I have made some blades out of HSS metal cutting blades and they also work extremely well...and they are practically rust proof also, which is a good thing.
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Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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That's one happy looking guy!
One thing about "bi-metal" has always bothered me .... There is very little of the hard business side of alloy. Most can visibly be distinguished, but I would not want to create a new edge from any possible balance.
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How do you do the ferrule? Is it tensioning the blade or just cosmetic?
Mark
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I like it.
Cheers ...
Lyn Disbrow: Born in America ... a long long time ago
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(12-02-2016, 03:58 PM)CLETUS Wrote: How do you do the ferrule? Is it tensioning the blade or just cosmetic? ..................................
Mark it was just a length of brass tubing I had in stock..I just cut a chunk off and bent into an oval shape, then cut the wood down so it was a press fit into the ferrule..I used epoxy to secure it.
The bi-metal blade is hard throughout...You cannot file it..period....The edge may have been a harder steel but I ground the teeth off anyway...It holds a really good edge or I would not have used it, because I have many other types of tool steel in stock...including some nice Raindrop Damascus that works up nicely.
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Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
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Very nice Jack.
Jim in Okie
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(12-02-2016, 03:58 PM)CLETUS Wrote: How do you do the ferrule? Is it tensioning the blade or just cosmetic?
How does a ferrule tension a knife blade and what advantage does this give?
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