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I am building a small cabinet for a bathroom. End product will be painted. What type of plywood should I use?
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what size cabinet?
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Actually is will be more like a bookcase. 48" height, 16" width, 8" depth. 4 shelves
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Baltic birch or maple.
Be sure to use an oil based primer.
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Why oil based primer, may I ask?
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Painted projects are more work than stained ones. I would use either a cabinet grade maple, or maybe even prefinished (2 sides). Here's why: the grain is going to telegraph through the paint unless you do something to insure it doesn't (thta's the work). A cabinet grade maple will be less work, but the pre finished is dead flat smooth and ready to go. Scuff the finish slightly and prime with Zinnser shellac prime to insure adhesion (the major potential problem) and then paint. One other suggestion: consider using MDO. Made for painted outdoor signs, it's usually really smooth and can be easily painted.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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If you're going to paint it, MDF. It's cheaper than plywood, and if painted on all surfaces (back and bottom), it'll survive moisture. If the paint cracks or fails, MDF and moisture are not happy neighbors.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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The maple/poplar ply that they sell at Lowes has knots. Those will telegraph through paint unless you first coat it with Sealcoat or a shellac based primer.
I've made shelves from that Lowes ply and it is fine for that application. For painted finish I would not spend more for a better grade.
MDF paints even better but you have to shellac the machined edges or they will raise "grain" with water based paint. They don't take fasteners well and I would not try to span 36" with a shelf made from MDF. But if you are generous with the glue and you are inserting panels into dadoes the will be quite strong. The material will absorb a lot of glue so a pre-coat is helpful.
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MDO plywood would work if there is a faceframe to hide the plys. Plus it's usually moisture resistant.
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Where do you live, and what home centers/lumber dealers are local to you? Not always apples to apples. Knots were mentioned, there is a lot of non knotty out there, and paint doesn't have to be a huge PIA. You can use a roller on the entire sheets prior to cutting, which takes care of the Lions share of the work. Always do both sides, and ASAP, less you turn a flat sheet into a roll. I've found Kilz makes a good primer, and Behr make the best hide, and top coat. Some watery junk like Valspar will telegraph after 5 coats.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
