Skew Bevel Angles... And Other Questions
#11
Sunday I turned my lathe on for the first time in 18 months. My lack of practice showed. I was watching this video last, night, it's one of the best I've seen yet on using a skew

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfeLAHQSbqk

He mentions bevel angle in relation to hardwood vs softwood. I'm wondering if a smaller angle (longer bevel) makes it harder or easier to learn the skew, at least the planing cut. I was also wondering if a wider chisel (mine is only 3/4") was easier until I saw him with one that looks to be about 1/2" wide.
Crazy As an aside, I also learned something about using a parting tool, and it made perfect sense when he explained it.
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#12
Best advice on a skew is to use it as it was originally designed to be used, point down.  Otherwise, as you push inward or down, what's cutting may not have reduced what the point hits.  Back many years, when I was a pup, there were still left and right skews sold, in recognition of this.  One side was ground with a bevel, the other not.  Used point down for beads and such, flat to the bead, or up at 11:00-12:00, bevel to the surface for planing, if you were too lazy to get the straight chisel out.

For roughing and planing, a straight chisel works wonders, is easy to maintain, and you vary the skew angle from broad to nearly nil depending on what you want to do to the wood. Since you're pushing in the direction of the cut, you can vary angles with ease.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...rRough.mp4

Though a 1" is a bit large for a bead on this piece, it's just a demo on how to roll the tool, showing no point no grab.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...e/Bead.mp4  (NB:  Easier to get symmetry when your wife/videographer doesn't make you stand to the side.)

One of those 1/2" wide point or half-round scrapers that "come with" converted to a beading tool - small straight chisel. Or a broad parting tool doing the same.  Bedan is another variation on the theme.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...eeling.jpg
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#13
Great video!
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#14
Well right now I'm just asking about planing cuts and how the angle on the bevel (not the skew angle across the front of the chisel) relates to that. Nearly all the planing cut videos I've seen they use a skew to do those cuts.
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#15
(12-05-2016, 10:42 AM)crokett™ Wrote: Well right now I'm just asking about planing cuts and how the angle on the bevel (not the skew angle across the front of the chisel) relates to that.  Nearly all the planing cut videos I've seen they use a skew  to do those cuts.

Pitch angle wants to be low for control when planing.  So make longer bevels (more acute sharpness angle) to make your direction push, not dig. 

http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/nlc-.../caop.html

For edge theory and terminology. Soft or hard, planing merely wants to cut low. Not much difference between hard maple and M2 compared to Willow and M2 in my experience. Steel wins.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#16
Mine are ground to about 40* and seems to work fine.  For general use this is what Batty and Alan Lacer recommend.
I have a 1/2" skew but seldom use it; my go-to is the 1" as there is a longer sweet spot and less chance of catching the trailing point in the wood.  I do use the 1/2" on small items such as finials where the 1" would be cumbersome.
If you are having problems with catches or skates while planning I can post a couple of links showing what most often causes them.  Once you know why it is much easier to correct.
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#17
I'm having problems with skates on planing more than catches. I figure once I get the planing reasonably reliable I'll try beads, etc.
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#18
You heard people tell you to lay the bevel on the wood, and have been trying to do it?  Can't.   If you don't have a bit of a clearance angle, you can't stay under the shaving.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#19
Maybe one of these will help, the Brendan Stemp is in two parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMIwqFDMIhA

or Richard Raffan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOvF5f1phhY
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#20
The Brendan Stemp video showed me two issues (so far), and aside from my skew could be sharper.   first one is I am cutting too high on the cutting edge.  second is after watching his video and others, I think the bevel on my skew is too long.

Hmm... brendan says don't use long point down, Richard does. After watching Richard's video I have one of my issues explained why that's happening.
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