Skew Bevel Angles... And Other Questions
#18
Always a new way isn't there (long or short point)?  But that means there is always something new/different to learn.
For a planning cut I normally use the short point.  It is often difficult to cut near the headstock with the long point down if going left to right.  I do use the long point sometimes.  I believe which point also determines where on the wood the cut is made in order to lessen the chance of a dig in by the trailing point.
With the short point I cut closer to 12:00 where with long point I cut closer to 9:00.
What ever works for you is good.
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#19
Personally I like the 1" and wider for control issues for me.  For using the skew try to keep the cut about the middle of the blade or a little lower.  At the top and bottom you will get GREAT catches. 

On sharpening I use the duel holder from Oneway wolverine system and once I have the angle set I put a hose clamp in it so when I push it in it will always be the same.

When grinding I guess I do not go by how long the bevel is since I might have a skew that is thin or thick but what works for me is about 1.5 times the thickness of the medal.

Hope you know what I mean
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#20
Hi Arlin, yes I know what you mean. My skew is about 3/4" wide. I have a scraper that is a little wider that I'm thinking of regrinding to a straight chisel, but it's a cheap tool so I don't know if it's worth it.
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#21
(12-06-2016, 05:41 PM)crokett™ Wrote: Hi Arlin, yes I know what you mean.  My skew is about 3/4" wide.  I have a scraper that is a little wider that I'm thinking of regrinding to a straight chisel, but it's a cheap tool so I don't know if it's worth it.

Take the plunge.  You'll NEVER catch a forgotten point on a straight chisel.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#22
Michael, I may just do that.

Also, at 1:08ish on this Richard Raffan video he explains one of my biggest issues with my skew.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOvF5f1phhY

at 6:40ish he explains a problem I have with my bowl gouge, and that makes perfect sense to me.
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#23
(12-08-2016, 05:42 PM)crokett™ Wrote: at 6:40ish he explains a problem I have with my bowl gouge, and that makes perfect sense to me.

A catch happens because you got under the wood instead of cutting across the grain and downhill.  That's what it shows with the bowl gouge catch.  If you keep the flute facing out from the work, no biggie.  I use broad sweep gouges with constant grind angles, where the sweet spot is virtually the entire edge, while narrow sweep types have a considerable smaller sweet spot.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#24
(12-06-2016, 05:59 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: Take the plunge.  You'll NEVER catch a forgotten point on a straight chisel.

Was off work today. I ground that scraper down to a straight chisel. It's too wide and not thick enough to be an effective scraper. The edge still needs a little work, but it was much easier to use than my skew, and I think it will be easier to sharpen. I won't claim that it was finish-quality work, but using the straight chisel I got the best finish I've ever gotten with planing cuts on a couple practice pieces. I think I need a narrower one to work on smaller-diameter pieces.
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