Biscuit use in table top
#31
To some extant it depends on the size of the top. I don't use helpers on small ones, but on larger tops (biscuits are my choice) they are useful.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#32
I use biscuits fairly often.  They can telescope if sand too quickly after gluing and the glue has not completely cured.  Not a big issue with veneers because you are trying not to sand; pretty much a solid wood problem with uncured glue. 

what I do with edging - I put masking tape on the table side.  This will offset the edge enough so the edge will be slightly proud of the top. So at that point you should be able to use a scraper to get the edge down to the table top.  There are other methods; sanding, plane. router - they are okay but I believe the scraper has better control.
John

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We need to clean house.
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#33
I use biscuits all the time and never had an issue with them showing. Set the tool at 3/8 and you'll hit the center of the board all the time. I have to say if your too close to the top they may swell up cause issues.
Don
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#34
(12-08-2016, 09:34 PM)John Mihich Wrote:

what I do with edging - I put masking tape on the table side.  This will offset the edge enough so the edge will be slightly proud of the top.

There's an idea I'll have to remember.....
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#35
(12-07-2016, 08:33 PM)Edwin Hackleman Wrote: I can't remember ever using a nail or a biscuit to help edge glue up a table top or a bench top. But, if you guys want to use them, go ahead.

Just for alignment Ed.  
Big Grin  Nothing to do at all with holding it together. If you get a complex angle, it may want to slip and slide when wetted with glue. I'd have to agree on a flat panel glue up all I have ever done is use a flat surface, and clamp and caul it done.

When I worked at ShopSmith we got amazing deals on the products they carried, and I bought a lot of these. If used correctly they don't even need the flat surface. I would make panels and stand them on edge to dry to save space.


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Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#36
Still trying to get this into my head. My first test did not do so well.  
Are you all using mitered edging for something as large as a table top? If so, and if you are using brads, how are you able to align the miters?
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#37
Bill I would have to say the 2 things I see as a must is a dead flat table, so you don't have height discrepancies, and I dry fit, and make reference lines on all the mating pieces where I want them to go. I just use a contrasting color pencil, very sharp point. I'm gonna opt for lazy here, and just cut and paste.......


"I've always used 3d x 1.25" finish nails. Hammer it dead center into a 3/4" board, leave a little over 1/2 of it out. Snip the head off at an angle, leaving it sharp helps knock the pieces together. I use a reference plate to sit the pieces on, put the unattached piece with part of it hanging off the plate, and a deadblow to whack it together. The reference plate keeps it dead flat, and putting a couple of registration marks on the pieces get you lined up correctly. Someone said to use wire nail gun nails, and I found them whimpy on knocking the two pieces together, so I went back to the 3d's, just stout enough, without being too stout. Being metal they don't absorb any glue, so you don't need to wait around like with a wood product."

What I didn't say was the potion that will penetrate the "outer" piece, the one you are hammering on that nail, the nail going into that only needs to be long enough to get the trims attention, to keep it from moving. I am not trying to affix the piece with the nail, I'm using glue. The nail is just to keep the outer piece from slipping forward or backward. I am already controlled for up and down by using a dead flat surface. If it ends up not laying flat on the reference plate. I know I have messed up, but that doesn't happen much, rarely actually.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#38
Biscuits make that part easier I suspect. You have a little lateral wiggle.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#39
This happend to me on 3/8" panels in my kitchen cabinet doors--but only I can see them. I question whether it would be a problem on 3/4' stock but will defer to people who have actually tried it.

To me the bigger potential problem is alignment.  I used to use biscuits all the time but gradually came to realize that I could get better alignment without them.
I had a good day. I used every tool I own!
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#40
If you don't want biscuits to telegraph, don't glue them.  Rely on the rest of the glue surface for strength.

They aren't perfect when it comes to alignment, though, they can still leave a very slight misalignment.
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