structural butterfly inlay

[Bope]

The table base shown below is my practice piece in poplar. I would still like to make one out of cherry. I did eventually learn how to cut and form the curved pieces without getting a lot of tear out. What I still cannot figure out is how to reinforce the joint where the two legs meet. Doweling where the legs meet the feet was pretty easy. Where the two legs meet I tried gluing it all together then using a jig and a forstner bit to drill down through the joint and dowel it. I was able to dowel it and make it stronger but the entrance hole looks like $#@!. It got me thinking if a deep butterfly inlay like this on either side might add enough strength to the joint. I was thinking of making the butterfly about 1/2" thick on both sides of the joint. My thickness limitation would probably be the length of bit I could get. I am open to any other suggestions also.

[rwe2156]

on the butterfly.

I would do a half lap and glue/lag bolt from the bottom.

[JGrout]

Not sure on the one you have built if this is worth the effort 

I would just drill and pin with a dowel then veneer over the entire surface of the leg to cover it up.

I am a little fuzzy now on how you got to where you are at this point It has been awhile since you started this project 

Joe

[Bill Holt]

I am a big fan of the "bow tie" inlay...but, in this case, my first choice is "loose tenon/dowel".  I have to admit I have never worked with the curve you have here and that does add a degree or two of difficulty.

I re-read your post.  If you have already assembled the two leg parts, obviously the loose tenon is out.

[Bope]

I am not worried about the prototype base that I have built. If I can't come up with a better joint then I will have to stay with the painted version. If the butterfly option is viable then I would practice on the current base then paint over it.

[JGrout]

How about a larger hole cut with a router ( clean cutting) then your dowel pin hole then an inlay to cover it up? 

If you were careful with your cutoffs when you trimmed initially you could salvage enough to fill the holes pretty seamlessly  or just make the initial cut as a butterfly and use whatever you like.. as a cover
Joe

[daddo]

I like it!

[Bope]

How about a larger hole cut with a router ( clean cutting) then your dowel pin hole then an inlay to cover it up? 

If you were careful with your cutoffs when you trimmed initially you could salvage enough to fill the holes pretty seamlessly  or just make the initial cut as a butterfly and use whatever you like.. as a cover
Joe

Joe,
I like this idea. Using a plunge router I could get a nice round circle on the curved surface. I think the problem I had was the forstner bit is so short it wallowed out the top. If I used something like a brad point bit to drill the dowel hole then a larger diameter router bit on a plunge router for an inlay across the top. That could hide any imperfection when drilling the dowel hole. I am not sure if I would try to hide the dowel hole. If I used a 3/4" dowel with a 1"-1 1/4" inlay I would need to be able to cut a perfect circle out of the cutoff to fit the inlay hole. Maybe a hole cutter with the pilot bit removed but that is an iffy cut. I am thinking a stock dowel in either the same wood or contrasting wood. I have tried making my own dowels on the router table and that never came out well and I don't have a lathe.

[Dara]

Either a short mortice and tennon or a through tennon.
I am assuming you mean where the 2 curved legs meet

[JGrout]

Joe,
I like this idea. Using a plunge router I could get a nice round circle on the curved surface. I think the problem I had was the forstner bit is so short it wallowed out the top. If I used something like a brad point bit to drill the dowel hole then a larger diameter router bit on a plunge router for an inlay across the top. That could hide any imperfection when drilling the dowel hole. I am not sure if I would try to hide the dowel hole. If I used a 3/4" dowel with a 1"-1 1/4" inlay I would need to be able to cut a perfect circle out of the cutoff to fit the inlay hole. Maybe a hole cutter with the pilot bit removed but that is an iffy cut. I am thinking a stock dowel in either the same wood or contrasting wood. I have tried making my own dowels on the router table and that never came out well and I don't have a lathe.

You can make a round in 4 cuts on a router table using a quarter round bit, a fence and leaving say two inches at each end square. The part I do not like about this is the end grain nature of the piece. 

That is partly why I suggested an inlay of a different profile like the butterfly you suggested to start with. Only difference  it is no long structural but only an accent piece in a tough place. Even with the curve you could limit the depth to say 1/8" ( it could vary based on the curve) then set the butterfly with glue and fair out the curve as it requires. The other possible plus is you could use two dowels in the shape and double the structural component over one dowel they could even angle opposing each other if only slightly. That would sort of mimic a butterfly joint. well kinda  
  

Joe