Kitchen Cabinet Build...advice appreciated
#31
The ones I prefer when I use them
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#32
Thanks!
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#33
I re-did my kitchen a few years back. I did not want to replace the granite countertops (expensive) so a reused the base cabinet boxes; but built all new uppers. I was able to completely replace the face frames on the base cabinets. So not exactly your situation and recognizing that a lot of this is personal preference – so in additional to many of the other suggestions; here is my $.02

In the Shop
You will be handling a lot of large sheet goods – an extension table for you table saw will be useful

Construction.
Pre-finished cabinet grade plywood for the boxes.  I would not use melamine. Personally I think it is a cheap look, very heavy, doesn’t hold up to moisture – however I did laminate melamine sheets to the bottom shelf for ease of cleaning (Also made all shelfs out of melamine)

Boxes are not difficult to make – but it can be a chore hefting large sheet goods around.

I do not like the look of frameless cabinets; mine are framed primarily because I reused the old base cabinets and due to some internal geometry I had to deal with on the base cabinet fixed shelfs. If I had to do it over (or was starting from scratc0 I would go with inset doors/drawers. IMO – the best look and sign of high end cabinetry.

You probably know this one already – but cathedrals point UP on the door panels. For wider panels res-aw and book match if possible.


Leave enough extra material extending from the back edge of the boxes to allow them to be scribed to the walls. I don't really like the quarter round trim strip "look" – IMO they look cheap.

As someone else mentioned - I also think a few large drawers on the base cabinets makes sense.


[Image: drawers_zpsgcwvf8db.jpg]


Extras
Incorporate raised panels on all exposed sides of base and upper cabinets – IMO a quality touch. And add trim molding (see below) to the bottom edge of the upper cabinets (also a nice little extra touch).

[Image: side%20panel_zpstbfvmg7b.jpg]


I added a plinth molding and “feet” to the base cabinets to give them a furniture look.

[Image: btm%20trim%202_zpshq17srie.jpg]

Consider used two different materials for contrast and interest (I use Makoree for the cabinets and Wenge for the island)

[Image: cathedrals%202_zpszresykln.jpg]
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#34
Lots of good advice so far...here's my 2 cents:

-I used prefinished maple ply for the cabinet interiors. I was surprised how tough the finish was when machining it, it looks great and no need to apply finish inside the boxes

-Rather than melamine for interiors, we applied laminate for the all cabinet bottoms and shelves (on both sides); it's a nice look and extremely durable

-Make cabinets as long as the material and your back will allow.

-Consider using french cleats for the uppers. Takes a bit more design, you lose a bit of depth, but hanging them is a breeze.

-Don't scrimp on the hardware and get the hinges and drawer slides before you cut your material.

-If you live with someone like my wife, make a prototype before you saw everything up. We (she) made a few changes after she saw the not-so-final product.
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#35
    Here is a view of about half of mine. Red oak, but for large surfaces I used red oak plywood. Using prefinished maple ply on the interior simplified a lot. Drawers definately better than doors.
I had a good day. I used every tool I own!
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#36
that looks very nice!  I have been doing tons of online research on different cabinets and such.  Spent about 2hrs at lowes last night looking at cabinets and getting more ideas while I was supposed to be picking up a washing machine for the wife...made her wait a bit lol
Keep your mouth shut and nobody will know how stupid you are........I should have listened!
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#37
i've done a number of kitchens for friends and family.... the one i'm on now is #15 i think....

thus far, good advice all the way around.  for plywood, i agree with the prefinished maple, and specifically i'd see if you can find the Columbia Forest Products prefinished maple.  the finished both sides is only a few bucks more than the finished one side, and i'd suggest going that route even though one side may be hidden - it gives you the option to select a better side, or hide a scratch from shipping or machining.  i pay ~$68 a sheet from my supplier.

face frame or euro?  are you going to make or buy your drawer boxes?  inset or overlay?  don't underestimate the effort and material requirements if you make your own boxes - that's a big job.  the last kitchen i did i made my own with curly maple, ~70 boxes.  there's a guy local to me who does this, and is tooled up to do it right, and if you look at the total cost in time and material for me to make the boxes, i absolutely should have just paid him for the boxes.  

can you spray in your shop?  what finish are you considering for the face frames and doors?

do you have a construction technique in mind for the carcasses?

good luck with your project....

-- dz

(couple of shots of some of the kitchens)

   
   
   
   
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#38
I see it often but have to ask:

Why would anyone build a kitchen cab with an open toe kick (or no toe kick??) ? 
Its just one big roach motel IMO.  
No
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#39
(12-18-2016, 08:48 AM)zaret Wrote: i've done a number of kitchens for friends and family.... the one i'm on now is #15 i think....

thus far, good advice all the way around.  for plywood, i agree with the prefinished maple, and specifically i'd see if you can find the Columbia Forest Products prefinished maple.  the finished both sides is only a few bucks more than the finished one side, and i'd suggest going that route even though one side may be hidden - it gives you the option to select a better side, or hide a scratch from shipping or machining.  i pay ~$68 a sheet from my supplier.  (I have decided on prefinished and it is finished both sides)

face frame or euro?  (Face Frames) are you going to make or buy your drawer boxes?  (build my own) inset or overlay?  (overlay doors and drawers) don't underestimate the effort and material requirements if you make your own boxes - that's a big job.  the last kitchen i did i made my own with curly maple, ~70 boxes.  there's a guy local to me who does this, and is tooled up to do it right, and if you look at the total cost in time and material for me to make the boxes, i absolutely should have just paid him for the boxes.  

can you spray in your shop?  (I can't spray in my shop, I will be finishing in my dads garage for more room and also they are going to be gone to florida all winter) what finish are you considering for the face frames and doors? (still have not decided this...suggestions would be appreciated...This is really the biggest shortcoming for me and woodworking, the rest I am not worried about)

do you have a construction technique in mind for the carcasses? (Planning on using dados/glue but pocket screws/glue are in the mix also, face frames pocket screws/glue)

good luck with your project....

-- dz

(couple of shots of some of the kitchens)


Those are some awesome looking kitchens!  I will show my wife your pictures for some more ideas!  Thanks!
Keep your mouth shut and nobody will know how stupid you are........I should have listened!
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#40
I buy all my kitchen hardware from Wood Worker's Hardware.

These are the ones I used.
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