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I frequently have shovels left out and the protective finish handles fail from a combination of sun and other weather. I would like to coat the new shafts of shovels to add protection. I have used silicon on the wood and metal. But, should I use spar varnish poly or what? I think the long handles are Hickory or another hardwood not sure. But they have a glossy finish which I want to preserve in case i leave them out and not in the garage. What say you?
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BLO, but some like weathered wood, you can get a better grip on it.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. RMB
The SO asked me today, "what are you going to do to day"? I said "nothing". She said, "that's what you did yesterday"! Me, "Yes love, but I was not finished yet"!!!!!!!!
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I sanded mine smooth with 220 paper, then sprayed them with Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish.
I did them 20 years ago & they've been good ever since.
But then again, I don't leave my tools out in the weather either.
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No first hand experience, but I have read that silicon will cause "fish-eyes" in a lacquer or shellac. Don't know about poly or spar varnish, but I suggest checking on that before you proceed with any top coat.
Ed
Ed
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dad always had us rub raw linseed oil on wooden handles. Later in the Army, we would use raw linseed oil on the pioneer tool sets we carried on our vehicles, shovel handle, axe handle, and pic axe handle. kept the wood from drying out, and the army tools saw a lot of sun, rain, snow, mud, abuse, etc...
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I would get PVC vinyl tubing from Home Depot in the appropriate size and either slide it over the handle or slit it lengthwise and then glue it. It affords and excellent grip and the black stuff is UV resistant.
They used to put new foam grips on the pull down arms at our local gym every three months or so. I suggested the PVC tubing which they applied using slightly soapy water for slip. It started to turn yellow over the years but in the 10 years or so I was there they never once had to replace the "grips". It is very tough stuff.
You add just enough soap to the warm water so that it feels a little slippery. You won't see suds. Pour the water inside the tubing and then work it on. Good gloves will help. When the water evaporates the "slippery" will evaporate too.
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is raw linseed oil the army used then the same as readily available boiled linseed oil?
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01-08-2017, 10:38 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-08-2017, 10:41 AM by Roly.)
(01-08-2017, 09:11 AM)Jack in omaha Wrote: is raw linseed oil the army used then the same as readily available boiled linseed oil?
No. Raw will not dry as boiled will. It takes it a lot longer to set up. Roly
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Fungus is what causes rot in wood. Treat the wood with Borate or Borax, then coat it with whatever you like. I like the raw wood for a better grip.
Keep the tools put away in a dry place and you normally wouldn't have to do anything.
