12-11-2016, 11:44 AM
Rather than change the direction of a post I decided to start a new one. Hopefully it will help more people in a new post than on page 3 of an older one.
I am the one out in left field. If a person reads the label, they will find that water is the solvent for the glue. Water thins the glue. And wood that is dry wants to go back to its original state. Therefore the wood will absorb the water and thinned glue. Which makes finishing much more difficult. If it is a joint that will be seen I do what ever I can prevent the problem, but they do happen so I use every means to fix the problem other than by using a wet rag. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I know that every one knows that an acid brush is the thing that is used to apply and spread glue with. But I use artist brushes to apply glue. The kind used to paint with acrylic paint. They can be found in the craft section at Walmart, Kmart, Hobby Lobby, or a store like that. The ones in a package with different brush points is a better buy down the road, although more expensive. They make it much easier to control glue amount and they also offer pin point accuracy.
Unless the application warrants the joint to be waterproof I use titebond one. It is less expensive and easier to deal with. The claim is the joint is stronger than the wood. So if the wood around the joint will fail before the joint, why use the stronger glue? Warrant means one doesn't need snow tires if driving in Death Valley in the summer time.
Although the acrylic brush is more expensive, it can be cleaned in water much more easily and reused over and over again. It also helps control the amount of glue applied in the joint, hence glue squeeze out. Excess glue is also easily wiped from the brush with a paper towel and can also be washed out of the brush with water during application if necessary. And yes, sooner or later, and probably sooner than later, the person applying the glue will space off cleaning the brush and move on with the project. Later when the brush is found, in a day or two, the glue in the brush is as hard as a rock. When it happens and it will happen, just place the brush in small cup of water for a day or so and glue will dissolve in it solvent and can be cleaned as though it never happened. Now the brush is less expensive. Titebond II also dissolves in water although it takes longer. I don't know about 3, hardly ever use it.
Gift card, the plastic kind that look like credit cards, also work very well for spreading glue. The are free if one doesn't pay to activate them. Old credit cards, although tempting, are better off destroyed.
I hope a lot will respond with the different means in which they use to fix the problem when it occurs. I also hope some will spend the $5 for the brushes and try them
On a personal note: If a joint will be seen or finish applied I will not use a wet rag. If you think a wet rag is the way to go because Norm did it on a TV show or you read it, even on the label go for it.
Again if the problem happen more than once why would a person keep repeating the process and expect different results?
Tom
I am the one out in left field. If a person reads the label, they will find that water is the solvent for the glue. Water thins the glue. And wood that is dry wants to go back to its original state. Therefore the wood will absorb the water and thinned glue. Which makes finishing much more difficult. If it is a joint that will be seen I do what ever I can prevent the problem, but they do happen so I use every means to fix the problem other than by using a wet rag. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I know that every one knows that an acid brush is the thing that is used to apply and spread glue with. But I use artist brushes to apply glue. The kind used to paint with acrylic paint. They can be found in the craft section at Walmart, Kmart, Hobby Lobby, or a store like that. The ones in a package with different brush points is a better buy down the road, although more expensive. They make it much easier to control glue amount and they also offer pin point accuracy.
Unless the application warrants the joint to be waterproof I use titebond one. It is less expensive and easier to deal with. The claim is the joint is stronger than the wood. So if the wood around the joint will fail before the joint, why use the stronger glue? Warrant means one doesn't need snow tires if driving in Death Valley in the summer time.
Although the acrylic brush is more expensive, it can be cleaned in water much more easily and reused over and over again. It also helps control the amount of glue applied in the joint, hence glue squeeze out. Excess glue is also easily wiped from the brush with a paper towel and can also be washed out of the brush with water during application if necessary. And yes, sooner or later, and probably sooner than later, the person applying the glue will space off cleaning the brush and move on with the project. Later when the brush is found, in a day or two, the glue in the brush is as hard as a rock. When it happens and it will happen, just place the brush in small cup of water for a day or so and glue will dissolve in it solvent and can be cleaned as though it never happened. Now the brush is less expensive. Titebond II also dissolves in water although it takes longer. I don't know about 3, hardly ever use it.
Gift card, the plastic kind that look like credit cards, also work very well for spreading glue. The are free if one doesn't pay to activate them. Old credit cards, although tempting, are better off destroyed.
I hope a lot will respond with the different means in which they use to fix the problem when it occurs. I also hope some will spend the $5 for the brushes and try them
On a personal note: If a joint will be seen or finish applied I will not use a wet rag. If you think a wet rag is the way to go because Norm did it on a TV show or you read it, even on the label go for it.
Again if the problem happen more than once why would a person keep repeating the process and expect different results?
Tom
