Posts: 4,354
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
I posted about removing glue and used blanket chest as an example. So I though I would go in a different direction here.
Since it is a hobby and I am not making a living at it I tend to finish parts and then assemble the parts. Take the dovetailed blanket chest in the proceeding post. Before assembly I masked off the pins and tails and finished the inside of the chest them. Usually the last thing I do in a day is apply finish before leaving. That way I can get a few coats on over a couple of days without interfering with making other parts. I then apply glue to the pins and tails and glued the pieces together.
If I have glue squeeze out, it can be cleaned up with a wet rag, followed with a dry one. Here the finish stops the glue from socking in and is a moot point because it is already finished. If it is allowed to dry first it still pops right off with a sharp (cheap chisel) with no damage. Also glue does not stick to a water based finish at all. A lot of it will come off with your finger nail when it dries.
Tom
Posts: 16,152
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
That is an excellent suggestion! I struggle with glue on the inside corners all the time. I have the 3M square sided ROS that works ok for cleaning those up, but it is not perfect. I'll try your method next time I made drawers.
Posts: 13,485
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 1999
Just for the record, I have been a professional woodworker for about 30 years.
I ALWAYS try to finish before assembly if possible. At the least, I finish sub-assemblies prior to final assembly.
Attempting to spray (and sand) the inside of smaller cabinets and other closed spaces is a nightmare and easy to screw up.
I also look to use factory pre-finished plywood whenever possible.
So your instincts are, in my opinion, right on the money, amature or pro.
Posts: 21,440
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
How do I save this for reading later?
As of this time I am now teaching vets again. If you have any lumber scraps we can use them to glue up to make some bowl from a board which we have not done yet.. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
At the bottom of this thread in the left corner click subscribe to this thread.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
How do you protect joinery while you finish?
Let's use half blind dovetails as an example
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 4,354
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
Just tape off the half blind like you would through dovetails. The are probably easier. A person is probably going to have some work blending the outside of a cabinet after assembly. So don't finish the outside, and glue is a moot point but I would still just let the glue dry. If it is a mortic and tenon say legs and apron on a table finish everything but the mortic and tenon don't finish the to be glued surfaces. By all means use prefinished plywood when ever possible. Every situation is different so let the project dictate how one proceeds.
Just a note: if one is doing drawers and they are for say a bench in the shop and they are not going to have finish on then don't worry about the glue. Wipe with a wet rag if it pleases you and get on with your life.
Tom
Posts: 4,354
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
An explanation of what is being covered in the pictures. Again application, application, application, one size does not fit all. This principle can apply to any use of this type of joint whether a drawer or a case carcass.
I chose this type of joint for the drawer because because plywood is being used and it is going into an assembly table for in shop use. Metal drawer slides are being used and because of this a super strong joint like a dovetail isn't needed.
I put black magic marker to where I applied the glue. From another post I asked about the brushes so showed a package of acrylic brushes I purchased for Walmart, in the craft section, for $4. I also tried to show where the brush or gift card can come in handy for applying glue. Whether or not glue needs to be applied to the surface of the groove depends on whether a person thinks glue needs to be applied to one or to both surfaces being glued.
Note that glue was not applied to the bottom surface or to the outside surface so there is no glue squeeze out on the inside of the joint. It is a shop drawer and it is not going to be finished but there is still no glue clean up. So no wet rag use or chisel use or scraping involved. Could any of the glue clean up methods be used here, yes, but why not avoid the problem in the first place?
![[Image: DSC02948_zpskbgmdqcf.jpg]](http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w593/tablesawtom/DSC02948_zpskbgmdqcf.jpg)