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I am looking for an alternative finish for wood pens. I have used CA in the past but tired of the mixed end results and fumes. I have tried the hutt wax
and a couple other liquid wax options and looking for something that will wear good. Have anyone of you guys tried wiping or dipping the finished blank in shellac or wiping poly? What cut of shellac would you use 3 lb or 1 lb? TIA
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I have had very good success wit CA finish, but have also had good results with wipe on poly.I always sand with all grits of micromesh and polish with plastic car wax.Good luck.
Mel
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I used to have good results but recently I was commissioned for about 700 dollars worth of pens that a bank was going to hand out to there executives. Long story short I did all the pens shipped them out. I had a couple extra ones left so I was taking pictures to post to sell and found cracks all over the finish. The weird part is the cracks didn't show up until two or three weeks later. I called the bank I sold them to and asked them to check them just in case and sure enough they all had cracks. I had them ship them back and lost the sale. Its pretty disheartening to have a problem like that especially when I suspect the glue as being the problem since I have made hundreds of pens before. The glue was out of a fresh bottle so not sure if I got a old bottle or what happens exactly.
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The only finishes I use for pens, or most any turnings, are either lacquer or waterbourne poly. I hate the mess and fumes of CA so I never use it as a finish, but only for gap/void filling. I stopped using it for tube gluing as well.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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Great thread - having just gotten a mini-lathe for Christmas. Have done a handful of pens and a small lidded box so far. I used CA on the pens and wet sanded with 1000grit and they turned out pretty good. Just got the micro-mesh kit in the mail from Penn State yesterday so that's my next try.
How about durability for NON-CA finishes - poly, lacquer or the waxes. How do they hold up?
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I have not figured out the secret to a decent CA finish, so I resort to a wipe on oil-based finish (usually Waterlox). I put on several coats to build up the finish how I like it, then buff the blanks out on a lathe-mounted Beall buffing system. Takes longer this way, but I get a lasting finish that's dependable. I have found that simply waxing a pen blank or using shellac is not very durable. On rare occasions, I'll simply buff out the unfinished blank. I have a spalted tamarind pen that looks quite nice without any finish. One other thing I don't care for with CA is you end up with a pen that feels like plastic and not like wood.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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I ended up using a regular water based poly for mine. Nothing seems to hold up really well on a often used pen. the oils from our skin and wear-n-tear break it down.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
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I admit, I don't make pens. If I did, I would be tempted to do the paper bag case harden, and then heat in some wax. Figure a pen is like a pipe, a bit of sebum and a cloth is all the renewal it needs. I lose all pens almost as fast as a pencil in the shop.
Paper bag heat/harden on a bowl.
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Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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For wooden pens I use Starbond em2 thin CA and spray it on with my air brush. One coat or maybe two coats and it is done.
On acrylics I just turn and sand to 600 with water and then use the polish I made several years back and I do not know why but it seems it makes the acrylics look 3D.
I was going to try to start selling it but it takes several weeks to mix and set and mix other things in. I gave the last 2 oz away 6 months ago for someone to try and get feed back from him and never heard from him again.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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(12-30-2016, 05:37 PM)MichaelMouse Wrote: I admit, I don't make pens. If I did, I would be tempted to do the paper bag case harden, and then heat in some wax. Figure a pen is like a pipe, a bit of sebum and a cloth is all the renewal it needs. I lose all pens almost as fast as a pencil in the shop.
Paper bag heat/harden on a bowl.
MM
I remember quite a while ago about you talking about the paper back for buffing and tried it and it worked OK but do not know about "Sebum" or how you might apply the wax to the bowl.
Do you get the bag warm and put the wax inside and let it go thru the paper? Or just use the paper to buff the wax off?
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
