Table saw binding issue
#11
I have a Craftsman contractors table saw model 218331. Lately I have learned how to tune it up and wonder if anyone knows how to solve the following problems.

The main problem is I can't keep the front of the blade and back of the blade straight with the table and fence. I have done the adjustments loosening the trunion bolts, aligning the saw and tightening them back down. As soon as I start using the saw, including raising and lowering the blade it slips back out of alignment 1/16". I have done this adjustment several times.

The second problem may be related to the first. Raising and lowering the blade is difficult. When I first start to raise or lower the blade, it moves easily, but soon it sticks and takes a lot of effort to continue. I assume it is binding on something. I have cleaned up the saw and ensured that the gear is not gummed up and even lubricated it.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

Thanks

Steve
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#12
It sounds like you are attempting to take all the alignment on just the front or the back mounts and it is binding in the bevel ways. ( the trunnion mounts at the front and back )

If I were doing it I would first find the sweet spot that the elevation and trunnions functioned the easiest Then I would work out how to bring the blade to proper alignment by moving the trunnion both at the front and at the back . this will take half of the misalignment out each way. If that fails then I would say maybe there is an alignment on the elevation  shaft that is in need of adjustment. 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#13
I always found, especially on Sears 113 saw that a pair of PALS was like gold for the adjustment of the saw The folks there are really nice. If you can't figure which set you need for your saw, give em a call. Helpful tip, get the Model # of the saw before you call.

Once they are on, and you have adjusted the saw you will be able to more easily get the saw right. You still have those silly miter slots to contend with, but there are worse things in life.

Good luck, a lot of us started with those 113 saws
Big Grin
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#14
Well my bad. I see you listed the model # here. I need better glasses. I think that is going to be the middle set, but ask them.

The stuck height lever is almost always going to be gummed up sawdust. Pine is the worst as it has a lot of resin, which acts like sticky glue. The only way you can see it all is removing the top, Believe me stuff can hide where you think you have it all cleaned. I'm not sure if Kroil eats sawdust, or it just causes the resin to break down, but I can clean out a saw for tilt, or elevation in a few minutes of spraying, then wait overnight. I've yet to have one not crank like it's supposed to after using this stuff. Terribly expensive, and worth every cent
Big Grin
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#15
Make sure everything is clean and lubed.  It should move freely. This should be the first issue to solve as it probably impacting the issue of movement.

Make sure the problem is with the blade/arbor and not the fence.  Use the miter slots to reference, not the fence.

To do the proper measuring; pick a sawblade tooth and measure from that tooth to the miter slot, then rotate that tooth to the other extreme and measure that tooth to the miter slot. 1/16 of an inch is HUGE.  Something may be broken, such as a casting.

Once you clean and lube look for any cracks.


(as a side note: I totally agree that Kroil is super stuff, however I have never used it to clean or lube a saw.  I use a brush and Kerosene to clean and lithium grease to lube being very careful to not let ANY kerosene near any bearings)
There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who know binary and those who do not.
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#16
The bolts they use to secure the trunnions are pretty low quality.  I replaced the ones on mine with Grade 5 (I think) and the trunnion hasn't moved since I did an alignment on it many years ago. 

I had to pry the sheet metal on the side that the tilt shaft is connected to to get the trunnions into alignment.  I used a 2 x 4 to pry it outward while I tightened the trunnion bolts.  

John
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#17
Thanks for all of the useful advice. I will give them a shot. One last question, What is a PAL?

Thanks.
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#18
Never mind. I found it. Thanks.
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#19
As your saw appears to be a hybrid and not one of the "classic" contractor saws, the PALs may or may not work with your system.


I had a Delta 34-444 for years and was able to get it adjusted spot on without the PALS.  BUT the PALS would have made the adjustment MUCH easier.

If something is giving / moving on a saw PALs are not the solution.  They only assist in making the trunion adjustment easier.
There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who know binary and those who do not.
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#20
I hope this isn't true of your saw, but the 21833, Ridgid R4512, Grizzly G0715P, Dayton, and similar Menard's all share some design lineage, and all had numerous units that suffered from an ever shifting blade alignment....not every unit, but enough that it was a concern to watch for.  You set the alignment, all is good....you raise or lower the blade, and the alignment shifts.  This issue supposedly effected mostly earlier models, but it's an issue that popped shortly after these models were introduced a few years ago, and just recently seemed to have gone away.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....








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