Workshop flooring

[Cian]

laminate on top of dricore is starting to sound better to me.  Only thing is I'm not sure I want to put my 5000 pound milling machine on top of it.

Hehe.  Well if you're not gonna be moving that around any, you can just install the flooring around it. 

[Dave Diaman]

Eric,
   What you will want to do is instead of putting the 1/8" thick foam under it is put a piece of 1/8" Masonite. I have several machines that weigh well in excess of 1000 lbs and don't have any problems. 


  Joe is right about a finished floor being slippery. Laminate or wood will be more slippery with sawdust on it as will smooth finished concrete. I didn't really worry about it because I am boarderline neurotic about about walking on sawdust and cleaning up as My dust collection picks up almost all the dust but as soon as I finish doing something that makes a lot of dust I immediately sweep up. As soon as I finish with a tool it goes back in it's place. I have found that if I don't it has a way of getting out of control really fast. I guess it comes from working in a small shop for so many years. Every time I think about an unfinished wood floor though I flash back to a a friend of mine who glued a piece of furniture he was assembling to his floor. I about laughed my butt of but he didn't think it was so funny at the time.

[MichaelS]

Lol Dave - that sounds like one of those "DOH!" moments I might succumb to myself.

I can only chime in that having a 'softer' surface than concrete is SO much easier on your back and knee's it is worth the pain / hassle of installing if any who are lurking, reading this thread are on the fence about it.

Ironically, my new 'shop' garage floor is so smooth, it causes the same problem as noted with a smooth finish or hard laminate ("Pergo") when any dust (saw or otherwise) are on it. My eldest boy slipped and landed on his hip from a little rain at the door opening a couple of months back (didn't break anything, but bruised the bejeezus out of his hip and thigh.)

I plan to do about 250 ft^2 in sleepers and 3/4" sanded ply for the 3 or so years until I build my proper shop, but this should work well until then!

Michael

[OldGuyDrummer]

My shop has concrete floors. By the entry where a laundry sink is located, I put down 12"x12" ceramic tile. Under the machines/benches, I put a layer of 1/2" OSB. All of the paths around the tools has the 24"x24"x1/2" interlocking rubber mattes. The tile, OSB and mattes are all around 1/2" thick, it is pretty much seamless. If I need to move a tool for some reason, I just pull the mattes up and roll it on the concrete floor.

[Mr Eddie]

I have used the gray interlocking mats from Lowes for several years.  My machines are stationary so I don't have to worry about moving them but it is easy to pull up the mats and put them back down.  Clean up is easy, too, and the mats don't get slippery with shavings and sawdust on them.  Every couple of years I replace the mats that get worn down or damaged.  Cheap flooring that couldn't be easier to install, lasts a long time, and has saved a few dropped tools.  Another advantage is you don't have to move your heavy equipment to install.  You can fit the mats to go around your bench legs, etc.  Keep in mind that the interlocking tabs are configured differently on different brands - you can't interchange Harbor Freight mats with the mats from Lowes.  I figure I have about a $1.00 a square foot invested.

Lonnie

[Dan_]

I have the cheap 2'x2' foam squares with the puzzle edges that connect them to each other.  You buy them in a pack of 5-10.  Easy on the feet, warm, and best of all when I drop a tool or the project it survives.

[Cooler]

I favor horse stall mats.  They are 3/4" thick and offer both insulation and are easy on the feet.  They stand up to horses and they are not too expensive.  Tractor supply sells them but there are probably cheaper places.  These are the "grown up" versions of the interlocking rubber tiles you see in department stores.  They are much thicker and made of tougher stuff.

I had both in my old picture frame shop.  The horse stall flooring held up and was easier on my back.  (And more expensive, but worth it).  Install is easy.

[Jack01]

I found some Parquet Wood floor tiles , they are 12 X 12 inches
This will be easy to install , I need to install on concrete floor and I do not want to install sub-floor.

Should I glue the wood tiles or screw in floor?
Any suggestions?

[MichaelS]

Interlocking or flush sides?

I'd put some thin foam down below them and avoid any floor attachment myself - instead bordering the rooms edge with a 2x2 or 2x4 that is secured to the concrete. This ensures that the pieces won't slip and avoids any permanence so you could change, remove, replace, etc. in the future. Think of trapping the tiles in a large picture frame.

michael

[Tapper]

Interlocking or flush sides?

I'd put some thin foam down below them and avoid any floor attachment myself - instead bordering the rooms edge with a 2x2 or 2x4 that is secured to the concrete. This ensures that the pieces won't slip and avoids any permanence so you could change, remove, replace, etc. in the future. Think of trapping the tiles in a large picture frame.

michael

For this to work the tiles will have to have interlocking sides and I would stagger the joints much like a plank floor helping the squares remain secure and stable. Don't know that I've seen interlocking Parquet floor tiles but they may be out there. I think you're asking for trouble if you either glue them directly to the concrete or try to secure them with mechanical fasteners - just my opinion, YMMV.

Doug