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01-21-2017, 01:50 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-21-2017, 04:02 PM by doobes.)
All,
I've got 7 - 24" hardwired fluorescent fixtures in the kitchen that I'm looking to upgrade to LED. The existing fixtures were inexpensive and the bezels don't stay on, etc. It's just time to change.
Doing some innerweb spelunking indicates a lot of options from fairly cheap to fairly spendy. Most of the cheap ones are not UL certified, but typically are CE certified. Most have exposed power leads in the boxes which would not be legal code wise in the US.
Can anyone recommend a good quality unit that is UL certified?
Thanks!
chris
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there was a thread on here on how to make your own. LED strip in the Lee Valley extrusions for me. Seems like a lot better route than wiring up a batch of 120v fixtures. At 12v, I'm not too concerned about UL
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I order the led strips in rolls of 15'(under $10). The power supply I use has a us 110v plug already on it($25 ffr 60 watt). Price varies depending on wattage. The strips run off 12vdc.
The led tape has an adhesive on it but I do it rely on it. I make a wood track around 1" wide and around 3/8 thick. I put a dado offset to one side using a dovetail bit slightly wider than the led strip. Then you can drill holes for mounting next to the strip.
Make a bunch of strips and cut to length as needed. Insert the strip using the self adhesive then I use a roller with ffamily on it to firmly adhere it. Now I go back and fillet in the groogroove of the dovetail and over the edge of the led strip. Just to make sure it stays in place.
Led strip is cut table every 3" and it has solder pads to attach to power or another strip making a turn. There are push on connectors now as well that come in several styles.
Then just screw the strips under and over the cabs and link together.
Our kitchen has his lighting on two walls 15' long over and under cabs except where the sink and stove is and it puts out allot of light. It is actually our main lighting and we rarely use the can lights.
I'll take some pics when I feel better and get a chance. LOML gave me her clogged sinuses....
In total I have about $50 in our cabinet lighting and it is actuated by a switched outlet on top of the upper cabinet. I could also add toe kick lighting but am not going to.
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(01-21-2017, 04:13 PM)EricU Wrote: there was a thread on here on how to make your own. LED strip in the Lee Valley extrusions for me. Seems like a lot better route than wiring up a batch of 120v fixtures. At 12v, I'm not too concerned about UL
I've already got wire in the walls connected to the existing fixtures.
Deviating from a similar form factor to what I have will have me patching holes/painting/etc.
Really prefer not to do that.
chris
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Looks like I'll be using these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-El...663885-_-N
Not a bad price, and meant to be wired like the ones I have.
chris
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The light you linked to has a color of 3000k. I haven't been happy with LED's that low on the color scale but everyone's eyes are different so you may like them. Home Depot describes 3000k as "bright white" but to me it looks gray and washed out.
It also depends on whether you use your undercab lights as task lights or as night-lights in the evening when the kitchen is not in use.
Mike
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I am interested in swapping out my undercabs myself as the bulbs are pricey and don't last all that long. Only not sure what is out there that will work with what is in place already. It is all wired up on 3 way switch 110. I am not pulling new wire
Phydeaux said "Loving your enemy and doing good for those that hurt you does not preclude killing them if they make that necessary."
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women have trouble understanding Trump's MAGA theme because they had so little involvement in making America great the first time around.
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(01-21-2017, 11:30 PM)Ohio Mike Wrote: The light you linked to has a color of 3000k. I haven't been happy with LED's that low on the color scale but everyone's eyes are different so you may like them. Home Depot describes 3000k as "bright white" but to me it looks gray and washed out.
It also depends on whether you use your undercab lights as task lights or as night-lights in the evening when the kitchen is not in use.
Mike
+1. I just bought a house. I was going to replace the kitchen ceiling light with a larger light, because it did not through out enough light. But then I thought, perhaps the bulbs simply are not bright enough, even though they were the maximum allowable wattage for the fixture. I put in 5000K LED's and I am happy with the lighting. There is a big difference between day light and interrogation room lighting.
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
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(01-21-2017, 11:30 PM)Ohio Mike Wrote: The light you linked to has a color of 3000k. I haven't been happy with LED's that low on the color scale but everyone's eyes are different so you may like them. Home Depot describes 3000k as "bright white" but to me it looks gray and washed out.
It also depends on whether you use your undercab lights as task lights or as night-lights in the evening when the kitchen is not in use.
Mike
Unfortunately allot of the lighting available locally is going to be the low k very yellow dingy color. Stick with a minimum of 4k for general lighting and higher in the kitchen as the closer to daylight you get the easier it is on your eyes and everything looks right.
