Cutting board advice pls

[Wipedout]

So I occasionally get requests for cutting boards that I make from scraps. Sometimes they want a juice catching groove (whatever you call that)

I've tried a variety of methods and while they were acceptable I wasn't happy with them.

What's the best method to create these. I rarely create the same size since they are made with scraps

I have a variety of routers and two router table (one with the incra fence system)

Thanks for your help

Robert

[Bill Wilson]

I made a guitar shaped cutting board for my SIL to give to a buddy of his for Christmas.  He wanted a juice groove that looked like the pick guard.  I had him draw it up and we transferred it to a piece of scrap plywood.  I put a template guide in the router and a core box bit.  Double back taped the plywood template to the board and made the groove.  Since I had never cut a juice groove in a cutting board that wasn't geometrically shaped before, this was a first.  It worked fine and both my SIL and his buddy were very pleased.

[atgcpaul]

So I occasionally get requests for cutting boards that I make from scraps. Sometimes they want a juice catching groove (whatever you call that)  

.....I rarely create the same size since they are made with scraps

I have a variety of routers and two router table  (one with the incra fence system)

Robert,

For me, this was by far the easiest method.  I feel like I have the most control when I'm moving the board on my router table rather than moving the router.

You do have to be careful to not overshoot your layout lines or your corners might be slightly misaligned.  My boards were all slightly different sizes so I couldn't set up stops on the table.  I only used tape in the corners.  I didn't run tape all around the board like he did.



Paul

[Bill Holt]

I did it once with an edge guide one the router, with beginner's luck it turned out perfect.  But never again.  Paul has the right idea if you are doing different size boards.

[MichaelMouse]

I never saw it written that the groove has to go all the way round, so a simple three -sided template leaves one end to be fully bored for hanging, or pierced for holding.   Core box bit cleans easiest.

[Wipedout]

Thanks Paul

I did the last couple that way but the corners are tough. 

Thanks all

Maybe a template is my only solution

[JGrout]

Thanks Paul

I did the last couple that way but the corners are tough. 

Thanks all

Maybe a template is my only solution

AFAIC it is a good solution I make them as a window opening then use a guide bushing and a firm hand on a handheld router. Make a crutch for the off side of the router (double stick tap holds it)  so you do not have to hold the router in two planes at the same time 

I do a couple of passes to get the depth the last one taking just enough to remove a burn spot if i get one. 

To me it is far easier to follow the correct rotation (clockwise) with a hand held router than on a table

[Billbo]

I made 12 end grain cutting boards last year.

My wife & daughter wanted a "drip groove" on one side of the boards I made for them.

After experimenting with scrap lumber, a hand held router and a jig I was not happy with the results.

I did an internet search for CNC Router services and found several local (within 30 miles) small businesses that did CNC routing.

I had a local guy do it between jobs ($30 for 3 boards) - they came out BEAUTIFUL (not worth doing myself).
- Had to wait until he could do it between jobs, but well worth the wait.

Having the right tools (and knowledge) makes a BIG difference.
- I don't have a CNC router machine, nor knowledge of such, but there are guys who do . . . . .

[Wipedout]

These are my latest. You can see how I screwed up the corners.

They liked them but I didn't

[Steve N]

For me this is a job for hand held (Bosch Colt) small router. with an edge guide set in whatever width you choose. Only problem with an edge guide is stops for the corners, as the guide merely keeps you straight, and a pre-set distance from the edge, you can still go zooming off the edge as you get to the corner. For that I put up stop blocks that sit taller than the board, so the edge of the router bumps into them, and stops me, again at a pre-set distance. Once you have made a tray to sit the board in with the corner blocks already on it, you have a tendency of making all you cutting boards the same size. Like Joe I make it in several passes with added depth each pass.

As I bump my stop blocks I have to stop the router to turn it for a new straight length. Doing this I will often get a small burn on Maple, and Cherry that I need to rub out with sandpaper around my fingertip.