Some recent work
#31
Absolutely Fantastic!
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#32
(01-29-2017, 11:42 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Dave, I trust the mortiser is up to the task for those stool joints.  I like the design of those stools, although I've never been a fan of the tractor seat design.  And I really like how the top stretchers curve so that the mortises line up at or close to 90° at the legs.  Are you making thru tenons like in the photo? 

John

John, the mortiser has been working really well. I am making through tenons like in the photo. The mortiser makes it a lot easier than using a mortising machine since I don't have to worry about blowout on the back. When I make Chippendale chairs that is a problem but I have figured out ways to deal with it but it does waste some wood. All I need to do after I cut the mortise is square the ends. The tenons are where it gets tricky since a lot of them are at compound angles.
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#33
Thanks for the feedback Dave.  Glad to hear the machine is meeting your needs.  

The machine is plenty capable of handling compound angles, too, which I'm sure you know.  Maybe I should make a Dooby type pivot arm for the X-table so that it would be easy to set the one angle.  What I do now is just cut a piece of wood to the angle I need.  I'd have to put the clamp on the pivot arm though.  I'll have to give it some thought. 

Of course, you still have to deal with cutting away the waste at the base of the tenon by hand if the tenon is not square to the shoulders.  That's why I favor loose tenons, but I know that's not period authentic.  But those guys would have used them had the technology been available to them back them, of that I am sure.  

John
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#34
John, on the chairs I'm making now I am actually cutting all my tenons on the tablesaw. I start out with a 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" block and cut everything while it is still square. I do cut the angle at the back. Once I have all the joinery cut it gets cut to shape. Chairs are the one place will I will not use loose tenons regardless of style. I tried a chair with loose tenons as an experiment and the loose tenons failed after about a two years. If I would have pinned the tenons on both ends it would have probably lasted a lot longer. I honestly don't understand why loose tenons seem to fail way before traditional M&T joinery. It seems like there should not be any difference. I made the chair right after FWW published the article that showed that Domino and loose tenon joints were so much weaker than traditional M&T joinery. I thought their results were bull. After the test chair I made I have to agree the the data was accurate. For most applications loose tenons are a great option but for something like a chair I just can't take a chance. On top of that on traditional pieces I am held to a certain standard and traditional joinery is part of the standard.
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#35
Dave, that's curious.  Which end failed, the end that would be the traditional tenon, or the mortised end.  

Twenty years ago I built 4 kitchen chairs with loose tenon joinery.  Not only did I use loose tenons on the lower stretchers, but the ones under the seat are more like loose tenon bridle joints where they meet the front legs, open at the top.  I reasoned that more glue area was superior to having a true tenon with so little meat above it.

[Image: pBYCGGy9pGFPnQtpBGU0uU_lQ7T9ITb1UgIb2wHw...38-h628-no]

Two or three of these chairs get daily use.  I used 3/8" maple loose tenons (same as the chair) and TB II.  As you can see, these chairs are not overly robust in their design.  They are as solid today as when I first built them.  

I understand why you would choose to use traditional M&T joints.  But my experience has been nothing but positive.  And for someone who might not be able to build with the precision you can loose tenons inherently provide a precise fit with smooth mating surface, key to a good glue joint. 

John
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#36
The chair was a Chippendale style chair which has a lot more stress on the back legs than your chairs because of the way it is shaped. Both tenons pulled apart in the horizontal grain. I will add that I have some large in-laws which made a big difference. With that said, when I build a piece to sell I have to assume that it will be abused. When I started digging for info on the strength of loose tenon joints v/s traditional they all seem to have the same result I had. The tenon pulls out of the long grain when over stressed. The fit of the joint didn't seem to matter as one of the better studies I found used CNC equipment to make all the joinery. I'm glad you have had such good luck with your chairs. All I can comment on is the chair I tested and the repairs I have done over the years. I will add that the chairs I have repaired have been doweled or had the headlock style tenons in them which seem to be much weaker. For the most part they were average quality commercial chairs. It's not something I am in the habit of doing but it seems like ever time I turn around someone I know wants me to fix a chair for them. I'm sure everyone here knows how that goes. 

The chair I tested was a dumbed down version of this chair minus the arms. You can see in the photo why the back legs are angled. I made the rough parts at the same time and just added the loose tenon joinery later to finish the chair the extra chair. It is always good to have extra parts when building a set of chairs  stuff happens right. 
Crazy

]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k316/eoddave/Furniture/P1050601_zps7011f08b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo P1050601_zps7011f08b.jpg[/img]

<img src="http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k316/eoddave/Furniture/Statechairs_zps0278663e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Statechairs_zps0278663e.jpg"/>
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#37
Your work is outstanding!

Each of those projects takes a lot of time and requires a lot of patience and perseverance and requires a lot of fortitude and the ability to stick with it, even when the going isn't so smooth. That certainly shows in your work.
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#38
I missed your post before Dave, but I know before opening it having seen your work in the past that it's always going to be a treat (and especially humbling - lol.)

Superb execution as always and that Tiger Maple really is something. I love that wood and your finishing scheduling makes it just pop. Bravo sir!

Michael
Every day find time to appreciate life. It is far too short and 'things' happen. RIP Willem
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#39
Hi Dave - just viewing this thread - your work and craftsmanship are just outstanding - the intricate details are amazing (I like straight lines and right angles -  
Wink ) - thanks for sharing these pics w/ us - Dave
Smile
Piedmont North Carolina
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#40
Very nice work. Glad to see you use the "saw tooth" shelf supports. I built a linen cabinet for my wife and incorporated those type of supports. Rock solid.
Mike

"Unless you try to do something beyond what you have already mastered, you will never grow." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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